ApproachFerret (Valais, Switzerland) or Arnouva (Aosta, Italy) to Bivacco (Cesare) Fiorio.
Route DescriptionThe normal route is described in guide books (see main section of mountain).
However, the submitter would like to stress, that this was the most dangerous peak he ever climbed. The final section is absolutely direct on icy 45%. On the way up you may be able to avoid being exactly underneath other climbers / parties, with difficulty. On the way down, there is no way to control who is following you ...
Also, there are crevasses.