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Page Type: Route

Location: Hautes-Pyrénées, France, Europe

Lat/Lon: 42.84320°N / 0.4358°W

Object Title: Normal

Route Type: Scramble / Rock Climb

Time Required: Most of a day

Difficulty: PD, II+, 550 m

Route Quality: 
 - 3 Votes
 

 

Page By: Diego Sahagún

Created/Edited: Sep 12, 2002 / Apr 17, 2004

Object ID: 156934

Hits: 4970 

Page Score: 73.06%  - 3 Votes 

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History


An Aspe's valley shepherd climbed first in 1787, he built the cairn on the summit founded years later. On October 2nd, 1797, Guillaume Delfau with the Eaux-Bonnes' shepherd, Mathieu, started at Gabas shelter at 3:10 h. They ascended to the base of the peak, climb some chimneys to reach the summit. At 20 h they were at Gabas again.

Approach


Start at Anéou's parking, descend some meters along a forest trail to Gave (ravin) de Brousset. Traverse it by a little bridge and go N-NW crossing beatutiful meadows to Cabane de Sénescau (1.812 m). Surround this hovel (Gabas cheese is for sale) by its right. Hike NW to Point 1.893 m, a right curve, where a zigzag path climbs to Col de Soum de Pombie (2.129 m). Finally take a well marked path (N-NW) to Refuge de Pombie (2.031 m). 1 h 30' from Anéou's parking.

Route Description


Take the path W wards crossing la Grande Raillère (Rock Field) de Pombie (N-NW). Then hike NE wards to Col de Suzon (2.127 m), follow the E-NE ridge to Point 2.345 m, where rock climbing starts. Climb a first chimney where some ancient big pegs can be found, turn right over some ledges to a second chimney (more pegs than the first). Continue to the right to the third chimney, easier than the others. Turn left climbing an outcrop to reach Rein de Pombie, where a big iron cross is placed. Push forward over scramble to the summit. 4 hours from Refuge de Pombie.

Essential Gear


Crampons and ice axe are necessary early in the season. Even vivy gear and some ice screws are recommended. In Summer climb with helmet and rope.

Additions and Corrections

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Viewing: 1-2 of 2    
Rafa BartolomeRoute Comment

Rafa Bartolome

Hasn't voted

-Chimney 1: 15 metres, grade II. Goods handles. Rope is necessary for descent (to your election in climb but if you've the rope is better the use).


-Chimney 2: 20 metres, grade II. A little more hard. Rope is advisable for climb and for descent.


-Chimney 3: easy, grade I.


The signal of Portillon after the chimneys show the way.
Posted May 6, 2003 3:11 am
wschuellerRoute Comment

wschueller

Hasn't voted

July 2014. When dry (!) this beautiful and fun route is only 4th class with occasional lower 5th moves. Admittedly a significant portions of locals seem to using ropes namely for down-climbing however a competent climber can easily free climb this route. The route can see a lot of traffic so waits and traffic jams are not uncommon. The center of each chimney however can easily climbed around, avoiding the crowds. 100% snow free early July 2014 car to summit.



Overall timing with an early start from the high car park should be less than 6-8 hours round-trip so can definitely be done in a day without the need to stay at the (rather old and crowded) hut.
Posted Aug 10, 2014 6:48 pm

Viewing: 1-2 of 2    

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