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North Chimney

North Chimney

North Chimney

Page Type: Route

Location: Utah, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 38.65140°N / 109.3675°W

Object Title: North Chimney

Route Type: Technical Rock Climb

Time Required: Half a day

Difficulty: 5.9-

Route Quality: 
 - 11 Votes


Page By: Matt Lemke

Created/Edited: Apr 18, 2004 / Feb 17, 2006

Object ID: 160728

Hits: 7735 

Page Score: 79.04%  - 10 Votes 

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Same approach up to Castleton from the climbers campground as for Kor-Ingals. This route climbs the obvious chimney around the corner, on the east side, from the North Face.

Pull the boulder moves on the north side of castleton to gain the ledge that circles the entire tower. Once on the ledge, walk clockwise around the tower to the east face.

Route Description

Pitch 1: This pitch has it all...great rock, fun jams up splitter hand cracks, excellent feet, unusual pockets, and bomber gear. Climb double cracks up to the base of the chimney (5.9- 130 feet). Crux comes on the bulge 20 feet from the top.

Pitch 2
Pitch 2: Continue up chimney another 140 feet (5.9-). Cux comes down low on the offwidth moves 20 feet above the belay. An older star drive "bolt"(nail) protects the moves but a #5 camalot would make you feel more comfortable. Above offwidth, continue jamming up broken rock/cracks to an old anchor (2 pitons). Use care when selecting holds to pull on in this pitch. The rock is kind of chossy and broken up (runners?).

Dave 1
Pitch 3
Pitch 3: Climb easy cracks in chimney (5.7) up to the big ledge between Castleton and detached pillar (60 feet). Build a belay (gear) here or combine with next pitch to the summit.

Pitch 4: Same pitch as for Kor-Ingals. Fun face climbing and liebacks lead to the bolted anchors atop Castleton (5.7, 40 feet).

Summit: Enjoy!

Rappels: Double rope rappels down Kor-Ingals or North Face.

Essential Gear

2 -3 sets of cams from #1.5 friend to #3.5 friend (.5 camalot to 3 camalot). Take more in the # 3 and # 3.5 sizes. (1) #3.5, #4, and #5 camalot are very helpful.

Two Ropes

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.