Swapped leads with Brad Mastros. 6 pitches total with a 60m rope: Brad took the odd pitches and I did the even ones. We ascended the climber's left side of the couloir as the right side was dirty and littered with rock fall. The condition of the couloir itsef was neve transitioning to ice (there were ice patches for an 2-ice screw belay). Horrendous descent via the east face; had to sacrifice gear to rappel. Camped at the east shore of Upper Royce Lake (11,725'). Camp to camp just over 11 hours. Back at Pine Creek T/H by 10pm. Home in LA by 3am Monday....just another weekend in the Sierra.
"As an adolescent I aspired to lasting fame, I craved factual certainty, and I thirsted for a meaningful vision of human life - so I became a scientist. This is like becoming an archbishop so you can meet girls."