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North Couloir

North Couloir

North Couloir

Page Type: Route

Location: California, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 37.14000°N / 118.648°W

Object Title: North Couloir

Route Type: Technical rock and ice

Time Required: Half a day

Difficulty: III, 5.5, AI2

Route Quality: 
 - 1 Votes


Page By: Craig Peer

Created/Edited: Sep 30, 2002 / Oct 1, 2002

Object ID: 157030

Hits: 1685 

Page Score: 0%  - 0 Votes 

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From Bishop, Ca., take highway 168 west to the lake Sabrina trailhead. Follow the trail up Bishop Creek to Sailor Lake. Cross country hiking from Sailor Lake takes one past Moonlight Lake to Echo Lake. The Clyde Spires are directly in front of you!
The maps for this area are the Mt. Darwin and mt. Thompson 7.5 minute USGS quadranges.

Route Description

The ice gully is obvious. We climbed the right side, finding is somewhat protected from rock fall compared to the left side. Climb 600' of 45 degree ice, then climb up and left for 2 pitches of mixed rock and ice ( varies due to the amount of snowfall that year ) to the summit ridge. To descend, head North on the Sierra crest toward Mount Wallace, then head down class 2 slopes back to Echo Lake.
Although the High Sierra guidebook rated this as 5.7, we didn't find it harder than 5.5. However, there may be more than one way to go once on the mixed climbing!

Essential Gear

Ice tools, crampons, a rope, helmet and a light rock rack is recommended.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.


Hiding from rock fall in...High in the North Couloir -...Perfect neve on the North...