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North-East

 
North-East

Page Type: Route

Location: Iran, Asia

Lat/Lon: 35.95530°N / 52.10760°E

Object Title: North-East

Route Type: Scramble

Time Required: A few days

Difficulty: long and Hard -exposure to cold and wind

Route Quality: 
 - 6 Votes
 

 

Page By: Damavand

Created/Edited: Oct 31, 2004 / Nov 16, 2004

Object ID: 162698

Hits: 4155 

Page Score: 73.06%  - 3 Votes 

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Approach


You can climb from north-east to Damavand peak . You need at least 3 days .You start from Gazanak village after Polour village in Haraz road .( about 1:40 after Tehran by bus or car ) . Gazanak village is placed 1 km. near to Haraz road . This point is first and last village in this route . Then you must turn right on the river ( TALKHAB rever) . You can use bridge in village .

Route Description


PART 1 : (( From road to Takhte-Fereydoon shelter )) : After Gazanak village , You must go from right side of TALKHAAB river in gardens . After one hour you see a spring in gardens . You must take water . This point in the end of gardens .Then you must walk 2 hours and see a little garden and its spring . ( This point is the best point for camping in winter ) Then you must go forward [ from right side of river ] and see the last spring . This spring is named : Pehen-Kooh spring . This is the last water in north-east route . In this point you see all of the remainder route and main peak of Damavand .From this point you must climb hardly . You can better eat lunch and rest little here and take water .Then , You must turn to right on climb from right domain .[Now , you go up ; far from the river and buttom of valley .]You must climb about 2 hours , so you see a very little spring in grade , you can rest here a few minutes and then go up to a rocky peak . Its names is Menaar ( Menaareh ) peak [#3950 mt].Before the rocks , you must climb zigzag from a yellow and hard sandy way .Next , you must go to round the rocks from left and go up from morens( stones ) .When you reach top , you will be at top line (4000 mt.). Now turn left on and climb to shelter.After 1.5 hours you reach shelter .Its name is : TAKHT-E-FEREYDOON shelter .This shelter in 4500 mt. is solitary shelter in this route .From Haraz road to this shelter takes about 11 hours climbing .Now You are tried .The weather is cold and windy all times .You can rest to next day . If you have not water , you can bring ice from a glacier back of shelter .This shelter is made by students of Tehran University 1978 in commemoration of their friends.

PART 2 : (( From Takhte-Fereydoon shelter to Damavand peak )) : Next day you can stay here to harmony or climb to peak .After shelter , The way is clear .First you climb a hill , then climb from a rocky way to top .After this rocks you see another rocks right hand to top .After rocks , you must go from a way just top of deep canyon .This canyon is Darre-ye-Yakhaar .It is a glacier canyon . Your way is safe and you like to climb and see beautiful mountain .Here is above 5100 mt.So you climb from signs and way turn to right . You reach a glacier in grade .You must go across the glaceir carefully . This glacir is named : Aroosak-haa glacier .Climb and be carefull , You smell sulphur and you are at 5500 mt. Then you see a big glacier that names Do-bisel glacier . You must go across it very carefully .Now you are in North route of Damavand peak and near to peak .You climb slowly but after some minutes you will be at top of Damavand peak .From Takhte-Fereydoon shelter to top of peak is about 3.5 ~ 4 hours .You must photograph and return fast because sulphur is dangerous .Also weather is not stable .In return be carefull , because two glaciers is in front of you .Also if you mistake in return way , you must go down from North route to other way . Be carefull and follow your footprints on glaciers and see the signs .You must reach to Takhte-Fereydoon shelter and rest this night .

PART 3 : (( Return from Damavand mount )) : You must wake up and eat breakfast and return to down , from shelter to village .

NOTE 1 : If you want to return from same route , you can put your backpack in shelter and take a little backpack and climb to peak , but if you want to return from another route to down , you must carry your gears to top of peak and return from any route from top of Damavand peak to down.
You can see also Damavand from space image .


NOTE 2 : If you want to climb in WINTER , BE CAREFUL ! It's verry difficulty and dangerous and contact me for details :0098-918-111 5335 or myahoo@hotmail.com

Essential Gear


you need in summer : All gears for hard climbing in stormy and wintry weather . [ Good and warm clothes to climbing , good footwears for climbing ,a good sleepingbag , warm and extra socks , stove , . . . ]

Miscellaneous Info


If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Images