hgbauck - Dec 2, 2009 12:26 am Date Climbed: Jul 26, 2009
Greenwood-Jones
Good climb, but a bit scary for me, and we had a bit of a mini-epic.
We went off route on the traversing pitch near the top and climbed a really scary unprotected 5.10 pitch on the buttress. In hindsight we should have been farther left. Then I took a big whipper on the last pitch when a hold broke and a piton pulled out.
We reached the summit snowfield at about 7PM, but couldn't make it across because we hadn't brought crampons and it was really icy. So much for trying to go light. We ended up descending the east ridge, and spent the night out just above the big step. In a thunderstorm. With no bivy gear.
My advice: move fast by soloing and simulclimbing the lower part, at the traverse go farther than you think, and bring crampons unless you know it isn't icy. Have fun.
hgbauck - Dec 2, 2009 12:26 am Date Climbed: Jul 26, 2009
Greenwood-JonesGood climb, but a bit scary for me, and we had a bit of a mini-epic.
We went off route on the traversing pitch near the top and climbed a really scary unprotected 5.10 pitch on the buttress. In hindsight we should have been farther left. Then I took a big whipper on the last pitch when a hold broke and a piton pulled out.
We reached the summit snowfield at about 7PM, but couldn't make it across because we hadn't brought crampons and it was really icy. So much for trying to go light. We ended up descending the east ridge, and spent the night out just above the big step. In a thunderstorm. With no bivy gear.
My advice: move fast by soloing and simulclimbing the lower part, at the traverse go farther than you think, and bring crampons unless you know it isn't icy. Have fun.