Page Type:
|
Route |
|---|---|
Lat/Lon:
|
51.29769°N / 116.16433°W |
Route Type:
|
Snow/ice |
|
Time Required:
|
Most of a day |
|
Difficulty:
|
II-III |
|
Approach
Easy access from the Colgan Hut across glacier.
Route Descriptions
Primary routes are along a series of snow/ice couloirs along the North Face and include in order from east to west: Berle/Kallen, Chouinard, Central Ice Bulge Direct, Roth/Kallen and West Ridge.
The bergschrund is the first obstacle and has been opening up more lately. When we were there in August, the Chouinard and Berle/Kallen routes were hard to reach. The Central Ice Bulge and Roth/Kallen routes had fairly straightforward bridges. Expect dinner plating ice and a decent amount of rockfall on some of these routes. Dougherty estimates the time to complete these routes at 1-3 hours. Perhaps a little clarification is in order. Once again, factors to consider are number of climbers in party, skill level and weather and snow/ice conditions. I would clarify Dougherty's times as follows:
1 hour = Jeff Lowe soloing in good conditions
2 hours = 2 extremely strong climbers simul-climbing entire route in good conditions
3 hours = 2 strong climbers simul-climbing most of route with one or two belays in good conditions
If you are not sponsored by a major outdoor clothing company or are climbing with 3 or more climbers, plan on spending at least 6 hours on these routes. Also, stay out of the rocks -- they are crapola and offer little protection.
 |  |  |  |  |
Essential Gear
Set of ice screws. Glacier travel gear. Abalokov hooker (in case of retreat).
Miscellaneous Info
If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.