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North Face

North Face

North Face

Page Type: Route

Location: Alberta, Canada, North America

Object Title: North Face

Route Type: Snow/ice

Time Required: Most of a day

Difficulty: II-III

Route Quality: 
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Page By: rhlaird

Created/Edited: Aug 3, 2002 / Aug 26, 2002

Object ID: 156754

Hits: 3905 

Page Score: 71.06%  - 1 Votes 

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Easy access from the Colgan Hut across glacier.

Route Descriptions

Primary routes are along a series of snow/ice couloirs along the North Face and include in order from east to west: Berle/Kallen, Chouinard, Central Ice Bulge Direct, Roth/Kallen and West Ridge.

The bergschrund is the first obstacle and has been opening up more lately. When we were there in August, the Chouinard and Berle/Kallen routes were hard to reach. The Central Ice Bulge and Roth/Kallen routes had fairly straightforward bridges. Expect dinner plating ice and a decent amount of rockfall on some of these routes. Dougherty estimates the time to complete these routes at 1-3 hours. Perhaps a little clarification is in order. Once again, factors to consider are number of climbers in party, skill level and weather and snow/ice conditions. I would clarify Dougherty's times as follows:

1 hour = Jeff Lowe soloing in good conditions
2 hours = 2 extremely strong climbers simul-climbing entire route in good conditions
3 hours = 2 strong climbers simul-climbing most of route with one or two belays in good conditions

If you are not sponsored by a major outdoor clothing company or are climbing with 3 or more climbers, plan on spending at least 6 hours on these routes. Also, stay out of the rocks -- they are crapola and offer little protection.

Essential Gear

Set of ice screws. Glacier travel gear. Abalokov hooker (in case of retreat).

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.


Chris Hamilton crosses the...Rob Laird and Chris Hamilton...Base of the Chouinard route....Chris Hamilton above the...Chris Hamilton on...Chris Hamilton on...Base of Roth/Kallen route....
Base of the Central Ice Bulge...Steve Jobe on Roth/Kallen....North Face of Mt. Fay