Easy access from the Colgan Hut across glacier.
Primary routes are along a series of snow/ice couloirs along the North Face and include in order from east to west: Berle/Kallen, Chouinard, Central Ice Bulge Direct, Roth/Kallen and West Ridge.
The bergschrund is the first obstacle and has been opening up more lately. When we were there in August, the Chouinard and Berle/Kallen routes were hard to reach. The Central Ice Bulge and Roth/Kallen routes had fairly straightforward bridges. Expect dinner plating ice and a decent amount of rockfall on some of these routes. Dougherty estimates the time to complete these routes at 1-3 hours. Perhaps a little clarification is in order. Once again, factors to consider are number of climbers in party, skill level and weather and snow/ice conditions. I would clarify Dougherty's times as follows:
1 hour = Jeff Lowe soloing in good conditions
2 hours = 2 extremely strong climbers simul-climbing entire route in good conditions
3 hours = 2 strong climbers simul-climbing most of route with one or two belays in good conditions
If you are not sponsored by a major outdoor clothing company or are climbing with 3 or more climbers, plan on spending at least 6 hours on these routes. Also, stay out of the rocks -- they are crapola and offer little protection.
Set of ice screws. Glacier travel gear. Abalokov hooker (in case of retreat).
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