From Hungry Packer Lake, gain the ridge the the north and follow this west to the cirque and glacier beneath the North Face ( you can also approach from a camp at Midnight Lake by gaining the ridge to the south and following that west ).
Climb steep snow and ice up a chute left of the Northeast Arete until one can exit left onto the rock. Follow class 3 -4 rock up and right, then climb up class 4 rock up and left towards the summit. Exit the North Face to the south and around to the left ( east ) to gain the summit the easiest way.
Ice axe, crampons, a spartan rock rack and rope, helmets.
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