North Face

Approach

The route follows the obvious break in the centre of the north face. It is located just left of the Angus-Leppan gendarme and is clearly visible from the car park. This is an impressive line which is fairly serious.

Route Description

Map #1 : G:23 : 3165m
Opening Party: Roger Fuggle and Colin Shuttleworth.
Date: September 1970.
Time: 7 hours climbing.

45m F. Starting on the line on the right hand (northern) side of the break, climb easily to a small overhang. Climb directly through the overhang (2m F) in the back of the recess.
40m G. Climb the wide crack in the large recess to where only the short and thin could chimney comfortably (30m D and E). Move to the left on the face and up (2m G with direct aid) to a diagonal grass line which provides easy climbing to a stance above the chimney.
35m D and E. Scramble up to below an overhang with a short, steep, rotten-looking recess to its right.
?m A1. Climb around the overhang on the left (3m A1), then to the right, to a point from where a line up towards the left leads to a very steep section of rock that obviously contains some tricks.
35m F2, A1. Move to the right (6m F1) and then up, moving gradually to the right as you ascend (18m A2) and avoiding a loose flake high up on the right. The small ledge moving back towards the crack is a cul-de-sac, so avoid this and instead, move up (3m F) and then to the right. From here a ramp leads up diagonally to the left to a largish platform (8m F1).
45m F. Move back into the recess and climb through a small overhanging section (3m F). Continue climbing up then traverse to the left along an obvious line (24m E3). Move back to the right to the base of the final chimney (15m E and F).
12m E3. Climb the chimney to the top.
Descend by the standard route. This route has been done completely free at least once, grade unknown.

Ref: MCSA Journal 1970, pg 69

Essential Gear

Standard trad rack. Long slings helpful.

Miscellaneous Info

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