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North face

 
North face

Page Type: Route

Location: Tirol, Austria, Europe

Object Title: North face

Route Type: Mountaineering

Season: Spring

Time Required: Most of a day

Difficulty: AD, 50 degrees

Route Quality: 
 - 3 Votes
 

 

Page By: Lortnoc

Created/Edited: May 9, 2006 / May 9, 2006

Object ID: 192898

Hits: 1660 

Page Score: 75.41%  - 6 Votes 

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Overview

The Hintere Schwärze / Cima Nera on the Austrian/Italian border boasts a broad north face, some 200-250 meters high.

Getting There

Reachable on foot (snowshoes) or on ski (preferred) from the Martin Busch hütte.

The first part of the approach is a descent trough tricky moraine terrain.

The second part is a hike up along the gently sloped Marzell ferner that will take about 3 hours. Crevasses are not a big problem since this face is mostly done in spring when snow covers most of the crevasses. Continue following the glacier to the east until one reaches the foot of the face.

Take the normal route as descent route and join the trail you made on the approach on the way back.

Route Description

Just go right up on the face where you like, the height of the face increases to the east. There is little/no danger of rockfall. The angle makes this a perfect north face as an introduction to ice/firn face climbing and is done solo by almost all climbers when the face is in good condition.

Good skiers can ski down the face.

 
In the North Face of the Hintere Schwärze
Climbing solo in the north face, may 2006.


Essential Gear

Complete alpine ice face equipment:
-Two tools
-Crampons
-Rope

External Links

Route topo at Bergsteigen.at

Images

Nice view from the North faceAt the bottom of the North FaceHintere Schwärze seen from...