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North face

North face

North face

Page Type: Route

Location: Austria, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.78290°N / 10.90760°E

Object Title: North face

Route Type: Mountaineering

Season: Spring, Fall, Winter

Time Required: Half a day

Difficulty: ZS/ZS+ (Ice 50-80°)

Number of Pitches: 5

Route Quality: 
 - 2 Votes


Page By: Jurgen

Created/Edited: Feb 26, 2008 / Mar 17, 2009

Object ID: 383780

Hits: 1997 

Page Score: 78.95%  - 11 Votes 

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This north face in the ötztal Alps is relative unknown. Most climbers that are staying at the Martin Busch Hut don't choose to climb the Mutmalspitze and his north face. Therefore you will find yourself climbing in a very quiet north face, without other climbers.

After a long ascent you'll find a short, crevasse-covered ice face. The conditions of the face are very variable. At the start of the face there is a steep section of ice (sometimes up to 80º). Always check the rescent conditions in Vent or at the Martin Busch Hut.

Tough climbers might combine this route with the Hintere Schwärze north face or the Similaun north face.

First ascent by: A.Czernotzky, M.Hiller, O.Metzger and Rasch in 1927.
The North Face
The north face of the Mutmalspitze

Getting There

In general:

See the Mutmalspitze page.

To the Martin Busch Hut:

See the Mutmalspitze page.

To the face:

From the Martin Busch Hut a short descent to cross the Niederjochbach. At the other side you will have to find your way up left of the large moraine. Then go pretty steep upwards to the Mutmal glacier. Don't go to much to the right. Approach the face with a large turn to avoid the crevasses.
The ascent to the North Face
On the approach

Route Description

The best way to start the climb is at the left side of the face. After a short climb you get at the steep section of ice. Depending on the conditions you cross it (variable steepness 50-80º). After that the difficulties are less high. Go straight up to the summit or a little bit right of it. The last part is less steep, average angle of 45-50º.
At the bottom of the North Face
At the start of the face

The steep section in the North Face
The steep section

Essential Gear

Normal Alpine ice climbing gear:
-2 ice tools
-a few ice screws

External Links

See the Mutmalspitze page