Palisades > North Palisade > Climber's LogNorth Palisade Climber's Log
|
|
[ Sign the Climber's Log ]
|
| Dennis Poulin | LeConte Ledge  Date Climbed: Aug 16, 2007 | |
| Tough hike for me with Dan and Kurt. 11 hour summit day from Barrett Lakes area. | |
| Posted Aug 20, 2007 9:53 pm | ||
| forjan | T-bolt to Sill Traverse Date Climbed: Aug 11, 2007 | |
| Day hiked T-bolt to Sill traverse with fossana and mybackyard. Swaped rappels with poorboy44 and Shy. ---------- Route Climbed: Traverse from Starlight Date Climbed: September 9, 2006 Climbed with Javier and DustysDawg. Part of the Thunderbolt to Sill traverse single day push (18 hrs: South Lake/T-bolt to Sill traverse/Glacier Lodge). Just right below the summit, this was the only place in the whole T-bolt/Sill traverse where I needed a belay for a short (less than 10 foot) climb. We went around to the left (east) side instead of the right (west) side as Peter Croft suggests. Left side (east) felt like 5.7. Javier & DustysDawg solo'ed that. ---------- Route Climbed: U-Notch Date Climbed: June 19, 2005 Third time was the charm after two previous attempts (sept 2002 and aug 2004). My partner on this climb was Gibran Begum. We started hiking from Glacier Lodge at 8pm Friday and made camp at the First Lake at 11:30pm. We slept in Saturday morning and didn't get going until after 10am. Encountered pretty good snow coverage starting with the slope up to Sam Mack Meadow. Found a great snow dug out camping spot like 300 yards east of the Palisade Glacier tarn/lake. Rested the rest of the afternoon (melting snow, sorting gear....your usual camping chores). At 3:30am Sunday the alarm went off and left camp at 4:30am. To my surprise we reached the bergshrund by 5:50am (in my other 2 previous "late season" attempts, it'd take over 2 hrs to reach the 'shrund). There is a snow bridge in the bergshrund that is not going to last very long....from what I saw the bergshrund is going to be problematic later this season as it is split into one big gap and a smaller one lower down. We had hard snow (no neve; I wish we had neve). We climbed the U-notch unroped and we're at the top of the U-notch by 7:30am, where moderate winds greeted us and kept me cold when I wasn't moving. We rested here and geared up for the 2 rock pitches up the chimney. Started up the chimney at 8:05am. I led the first pitch while Gibran took the second. Between routefounding and avoiding snow/ice covered ledges, we didn't get to the summit until 10:30am. The summit register needs a log and a pen/pencil as of June 19, 2005; there was not a summit log there, just the empty cylindrical metal canister. We were back again at the top of the U-notch by 12pm. Took another long rest here....sheltered against the wind. We started down just before 1pm by rapping down the last pitch (also the steepest) of the U-notch. Then, we just carefully downclimbed the rest and keeping a keen eye for the 'shrund. We made it back to our camp around 3:30pm (11 hrs after leaving it). Broke up camp and hiked out just before 5pm. Got to the Glacier Lodge trailhead by 8:40pm, where my sandals never felt so good. Home in LA by 1:00am Monday. ---------- Route Climbed: U-Notch Date Climbed: August 21, 2004 An epic.....26 hours roundtrip from the Palisade glacier high camp (12,200'). Trip report. ---------- Route Climbed: U-Notch Date Climbed: September 1, 2002 Did not summit (made it up to 13,400 ft). Steve Ford and I made Sam Mack Meadow (11,000 ft) our only basecamp. Started walking from Sam Mack around 5:30am. Got to the bergshrund around 9:00am. Waited for a party above us to get higher; started climbing at the late hour of 9:30am. Meanwhile, there was another climbing party of 2 right behind us on the queue. After our 1st pitch we see this party trying to pass us on the ice and crossing the ropes (they should have waited 'til we got much higher; they were going to get chunks of ice from us). Anyway, at 1:30pm (elev ~ 13,400') we decided to rap down due to our slow progress. The U-Notch on 9/1/02 was hard ice. Bersgshrund is crossable towards the right side without getting onto the rock. I was looking forward to the rock chimney. I'll have to come back again, but (1) set up a high camp near the Palisade Glacier tarn, (2) 4:00am alpine start so that I can be at the bergshrund by 6:00am or earlier, and (3) don't go on a weekend, especially Labor Day weekend (too crowded). Live and Learn! | |
| Posted Aug 12, 2007 9:58 pm | ||
| fossana | t-bolt to sill traverse Date Climbed: Aug 11, 2007 | |
| Traversed from Starlight with mybackyard and forjan. Thanks to Scotty & Shy for swapping raps with us. | |
| Posted Aug 12, 2007 3:15 pm | ||
| mybackyard | Traverse from Starlight Date Climbed: Aug 11, 2007 | |
| Traverse dayhike with fossana & forjan. | |
| Posted Aug 12, 2007 10:28 am | ||
| J Fox | From Starlight Date Climbed: Jul 22, 2007 | |
| From Starlight we crossed the Clyde Couloir and then climbed up the West Face. Most of the terrain seemed to be 4th class with a few 5th class sections thrown in for variety. This was the highlight of our T-bolt to Sill traverse and probably the most difficult section of the entire day. | |
| Posted Jul 31, 2007 5:36 am | ||
| markhyams | SW Chute Date Climbed: Jul 16, 2007 | |
| Loose, but worth the effort, plus camping in Palisade Basin was amazing. Pics here. | |
| Posted Jul 19, 2007 1:28 am | ||
| graham | Traverse from Starlight Date Climbed: Jul 6, 2007 | |
| Marty and I did the T-bolt to North Pal traverse from South Lake TH; ~15 hrs CTC. Got pushed off of North Pal by lightening ~1pm; otherwise another great day in the Sierras with great company. | |
| Posted Jul 14, 2007 3:12 pm | ||
| SkydiveKen | Summit for Someone Date Climbed: Jun 29, 2007 | |
| A four day trip with SMI as part of Summit for Someone fund raising climb. First night at third lake. Second night at Palisade glacier. AM start up the U notch. Crossed the Bergschrund on the far right. Snow turned to ice about half way up the notch where we were able to climb on the rocks. Managed some "old school" class 3 to the summit. Beautiful day with a bit of wind. Got back to high camp by 4PM. Hiked out on the forth day. summit for someone climb pictures | |
| Posted Jul 1, 2007 4:57 pm | ||
| sierramtngoat | Route Climbed: U-Notch + Clyde Variation Date Climbed: Jun 10, 2007 | |
| I climbed the U-notch from Palisade Glacier with my friend Dan after flying over the Sierra in his Cessna; what an experience! The bergschrund is passable on the right, but it's on ice, not snow; we placed some pro on the right and used the rock a little to get pass the steepest parts. Also, the "Clyde Variation" does not start 40-50 ft. below the U-Notch as described, it's more like 15; the beginning open book is not class 3, it's easily class 4. We debated if this was even the correct route at first because open book (more like a chimney) was not trivial; however, the remaining moves around the corner were fun class 3/4. | |
| Posted Jun 12, 2007 3:35 pm | ||
| Dave S | Traverse from Starlight Date Climbed: May 30, 2007 | |
| Final stop of the day. Headed down the U-Notch back to camp. The Palisades are incredible!!! | |
| Posted Jun 1, 2007 2:35 am | ||
| MelbaToast | Been A Long Time Date Climbed: May 5, 2007 | |
| It was a gorgeous weekend. Second Lake was about 60 percent frozen. I used to backpack here with my family when you could drive right up to the trailhead and drop folks off. Hasn't changed much but that was always summer. Right now it looks like fall even though it's supposed to be spring. Beautiful hike! | |
| Posted May 6, 2007 6:26 pm | ||
| yaknjorgl | third time's a charm | |
| finally, made it up the u-notch the year before, my second day on crampons, ever, didn't summit- slid a good hundred feet trying some dumb-ass, greenhorn stunt on descent- I learned how to self-arrest that day. Tried again the next year going up some west face thing but it got 'smoky' and we got lost and ... later that year we went up the west face to the chimney variation. I should have brought my diaper, I was afeared. But we survived, KB and I. We covted the Milk's Bottle of Starlight, but didn't have it in us that day, maybe tomorrow... | |
| Posted May 2, 2007 2:39 am | ||
| atavist | first palisade adventure | |
| I hiked in from South Lake TH on Saturday morning and summitted Polemonium and North Pal. After descending back to camp below Thunderbolt Pass on Sat night, I attempted Thunderbolt on Sunday. I made it to the register but didn't feel up to free soloing the T-bolt summit block in boots with no rope. I made it back out to South Lake before dark and hitched a ride in to Bishop. I spent the rest of the evening in a major thunderstorm, first waiting for my friend to pick me up, then during the long drive back to LA. | |
| Posted Oct 1, 2006 10:44 pm | ||
| seth@LOKI | The Coolest Peak ever. Date Climbed: Jul 21, 2003 | |
| Swesome climbing here! 4th classed down to the lookers right of the 5.2 chimneys. Not too bad but lured us into trying to 4th class Polemonium. I dpn't recommendt that. | |
| Posted Jul 26, 2006 8:33 pm | ||
| mekwise | U Notch-Chimney Var Date Climbed: Jul 5, 2006 | |
| "Hell Yeah, Baby!" I said with a whoop as I mantled onto the summit. Great well-worth-the-extra-push-to-get-there summit. | |
| Posted Jul 10, 2006 9:23 pm | ||
| Mike N | U-Notch Date Climbed: Jul 5, 2006 | |
| Phenomenal climb. Took 12 hours camp to camp! Getting over bergscrund was fine but it was starting to break up. Snow was good in UNotch in AM but was loose and slippery on the way down. Got to chimney around 10-10:30. 2 pitches of what I would call 5.6-5.7. Just a a few moves may be that way but it is definitely not 5.2 (ladder) as it has been called. Then was tricky trying to find the best route to traverse. We belayed from a little spot that overlooked the snowfield on the east face. Up over the slabs, around a tower, on the ridge, and then down on the 3rd-4th class slopes on the west side of the ridge. I would not describe this as a "bowl" but more like the top of a gully or couloir. Find the easiest way down to some sandy paths that will lead to the base of the summit block. You will be looking up at the summit from this point. Aim for the summit along 4th class blocks and small slabs. Up through a small chimney will get you on top of the summit block. For the descent...From there about 25 feet to the west is a rap station that will get you to the bottom of the 4th class stuff. Walk a little further down, cross the sandy paths and retrace steps to top of chimney. 2 raps then to the Unotch. We rapped the Unotch because the snow was loose and slippery at this point. It took a lot of rappels with 1 rope! This seemed to take a long time. Careful over the bergschrund. | |
| Posted Jul 9, 2006 9:22 pm | ||
| Rick Kent | U-Notch (Glacier Side) + Chimney Date Climbed: Jun 30, 2006 | |
| Climbed North Pal & Polemonium with Courtney P. Had fun leading the chimney and 3 pitches up to Polemonium (not the typical route apparently). No ice present in the couloir below the U-Notch -- just soft snow. After Polemonium we went on toward Sill and descended via Glacier Notch (a fairly long day). | |
| Posted Jul 5, 2006 11:13 pm | ||
| ghoulwe2 | North Palisade & Polemonium Peak Date Climbed: Jul 1, 2006 | |
| The snowline on the approach hike is just below Sam Mack Meadow. You can hike snow from there to the glacier or find the trail on the ridge to the left (looking up). We camped on dry ground 30-40 minutes below the glacier. The U-Notch bergshrund was passable on the right by a ramp, but will not last much longer. We soloed soft snow steps in the couloir, then roped up for the fun, chimney pitches to the summit ridge, where we simul-climbed to the summit. Arrived at 10:45 AM. Our plans to traverse to Starlight Peak were hampered by a party of 3 ahead of us, so we descended to the notch and climbed Polemonium instead. Arrived back at camp at 6:00 PM and hiked out - whew! A great trip with perfect weather in the incomparable High Sierra. | |
| Posted Jul 3, 2006 5:59 pm | ||
| cp0915 | U-Notch Couloir & Chimney Variation | |
| Nice climb. Snow was a bit soft in the couloir. Chimney was fun. Fun scrambling to the highpoint. Did Polemonium Peak afterward. (June 06) | |
| Posted Jul 2, 2006 4:21 pm | ||
| plume | U-Notch Date Climbed: Jun 25, 2006 | |
| Honeymoon trip. Perfect weather, perfect climb. | |
| Posted Jun 27, 2006 1:41 am | ||
|