The climb starts at the base of the glacier on the left hand (east) side of the north face. To reach the glacier from the lake, a direct route can be taken up the mountain through the dense forest on the south east shore of the lake.
When you emerge from the trees (2hrs) continue directly up the boulders to the obvious moraine ridges (3hrs). The moraine ridges provide access to the whole north face but continue up and left (east) for the north ridge route and make a bivi site at the end of the moraine (1-2hrs).
From the bivi site the glacier can be followed to the north ridge without difficulty (4h). The ridge is gained by a final 60-70m snow slope (~50 degrees).
The exposed ridge can be followed to the North Summit (a snow dome) at approximately 5700m (8-9hr total). The route from the North Summit to the central summit would involve traversing a steep, corniced ridge and would probably take another day.
A bivi/snow cave could be made at the col between the North Ridge and North Summit should a team wish to attempt the main summit.
Should snow coditions deteriorate during the day and not allow a safe reversal of the route, a desent route can be made down the central glacier to rejoin the eastern glacier. This invloves scrambling up a 10m loose rock outcrop.
Snow stakes are required, a few nuts/stoppers might also be used depending on the descent route chosen.
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