Welcome to SP!  -
North Ridge (to North Summit (5700) Only

North Ridge (to North Summit (5700) Only

North Ridge (to North Summit (5700) Only

Page Type: Route

Location: Sichuan Province, China, Asia

Object Title: North Ridge (to North Summit (5700) Only

Route Type: Glacier Travel and Exposed Snow Ridge

Time Required: A long day

Difficulty: PD+

Route Quality: 
 - 2 Votes


Page By: carruthersneil

Created/Edited: Oct 29, 2003 / Nov 11, 2003

Object ID: 159218

Hits: 1756 

Page Score: 71.06%  - 1 Votes 

Vote: Log in to vote



The climb starts at the base of the glacier on the left hand (east) side of the north face. To reach the glacier from the lake, a direct route can be taken up the mountain through the dense forest on the south east shore of the lake.

When you emerge from the trees (2hrs) continue directly up the boulders to the obvious moraine ridges (3hrs). The moraine ridges provide access to the whole north face but continue up and left (east) for the north ridge route and make a bivi site at the end of the moraine (1-2hrs).

Route Description

From the bivi site the glacier can be followed to the north ridge without difficulty (4h). The ridge is gained by a final 60-70m snow slope (~50 degrees).

The exposed ridge can be followed to the North Summit (a snow dome) at approximately 5700m (8-9hr total). The route from the North Summit to the central summit would involve traversing a steep, corniced ridge and would probably take another day.

A bivi/snow cave could be made at the col between the North Ridge and North Summit should a team wish to attempt the main summit.

Should snow coditions deteriorate during the day and not allow a safe reversal of the route, a desent route can be made down the central glacier to rejoin the eastern glacier. This invloves scrambling up a 10m loose rock outcrop.

Essential Gear

Snow stakes are required, a few nuts/stoppers might also be used depending on the descent route chosen.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.


Looking back down the North...Descent was made from the col...The North Ridge and North...The Summit of Haizi Shan from...The route starts from the...The start of the route, taken...The route follows the glacier...
On the descent, the ascent...