Climbed North Slopes 2 days after first snow of the season. Abandoned plan for the traverse, instead descended some 4th class, ad hoc, uncairned variation of the South Slopes into Kilpacker.
Ascended North Couloir on questionable snow (got soft really quick), summited and descended the North Face. I'll never ascend/descend the North Face again. Too dangerous. Partner almost had his leg severed in half by a dislodged boulder.
Intense Mountain.
People have died in the gulley, I found the scrambling on the "Central Rib" (right of the main gulley) to be about Class 2+. My brother Dirk and I did this in about 45 minutes from below the basin, one of our fastest summit pushes to be sure! I highly recommend this route unless you have time for the West Ridge which looks nice.