Did it with Chris Wenker the day before Lizard Head as a warm-up, but our feet got cold. We did not expect that much snow on the route, so had only sneakers, which obviously got completely wet.
We descended down to Kilpacker - nice south and sunny side.
Ascended North Couloir on questionable snow (got soft really quick), summited and descended the North Face. I'll never ascend/descend the North Face again. Too dangerous. Partner almost had his leg severed in half by a dislodged boulder.
People have died in the gulley, I found the scrambling on the "Central Rib" (right of the main gulley) to be about Class 2+. My brother Dirk and I did this in about 45 minutes from below the basin, one of our fastest summit pushes to be sure! I highly recommend this route unless you have time for the West Ridge which looks nice.