Contribute  Loading...
Geography Parents Loading... Routes
| North Summit   | 
| Page Type: Route Location: California, United States, North America Lat/Lon: 37.83030°N / 119.4217°W Route Type: Technical Rock Climb Time Required: Less than two hours Difficulty: class 4
| Route Quality: | | | | Loading...
| Page By: mpbro Created/Edited: Jul 14, 2001 / Aug 21, 2011 Object ID: 155600 Hits: 2361 Loading... Page Score: 0% - 0 Votes Loading... Vote: Log in to vote |
ApproachThe north summit is not the highpoint of Tresidder Peak. Still, the north summit provides a sporting scramble, and is often the first step for climbers traversing Tresidder's exciting summit ridge.
There are two standard approaches to the base of the north summit. The more popular one has climbers leaving the JMT south of Tresidder Peak, then ascending class 2 slabs to the lowpoint of the saddle between Columbia Finger and Tresidder Peak. A more difficult, but more direct route from the north, directly ascends Tresidder's 1000-foot North Ridge from the south shore of Upper Cathedral Lake. The lower 800 feet are a walkup, while the last 200 feet are mixed class 2/3.
Route DescriptionThere are many routes to the summit of the North summit. The easiest route seems to be 30' of friction (45°+) on the northwest side of the north summit. snwburd notes: "Sam and I climbed the North Arete from the NW and found it pretty straightforward class 4 (and pretty easy, other than the airiness of it along the top). I tried to downclimb the SE side in my hiking shoes, but that was a bit scary and I backed off (or rather, up). The rock is uncomfortably loose and it didn't seem wise to trust any single hold."
blueshade gives the following input:
"Alternative route for attaining the north summit.
Starting at the extreme north end, continue to follow the NE ridge to the ridge proper blossoming in front of you. Just to the right of a somewhat protruding (overhanging) rock there is a short 8’ crack. At the top of this crack a short climbing traverse (decent holds, but not bomber) leads directly to a small chute which then deposits you on top. A short but exposed crawl or straddle leads to the north summit."
Essential GearHardly long enough to bother protecting on the way up. If you must, a couple medium nuts or small cams. No bolts on the summit, but rappels may be possible by girth-hitching large flakes.
Miscellaneous InfoIf you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.
Images
|
|
Sierra Nevada
