North West Face

Approach

Walk around Cathedral from Bell Cave to the nek between Cathedral and the Bell. Remain high up at the rock band and continue for roughly 250m to the commencement of the first major ridge that runs down to the Ntonjelane valley. This ridge intercepts Cathedral at a very distinct 15m high buttress. A cairn marks the start of the climb.

Route Description

1. 20m F3/A1. Proceed via the very obvious thin crack using aid to a point where a ½ m by ½ m fall-away has left a smooth undercut surface. This is 20m above the cairn. Above the smooth patch which interrupts the obvious crack is a bolt station from which a belay allows the second pitch to start.
2. 20m F3/A1. Climb up the crack using aid and some free climbing to a belay directly beneath an overhang. Use the crack in the top of the roof as well as some bolts for the next belay.
3. 7m F2. Now 40m above the cairn move horizontally to the right beneath the roof. A single step down is required.
4. 7m F2/A1. Midway between the black water gully and the roof break up, with aid, to a belay on a massive stance 4m above the roof.
5. 7m F2. Use some obvious broken steps to proceed diagonally left and then diagonally right to pass to the right of the broken rocks on a nose. The nose blends in with the lip of a waterfall which is 20m above the last stance.
6. 3m A1. After reaching this lip walk up the river gully and aid up a second waterfall to an obvious scramble/climb out onto the summit.

Essential Gear

Trad rack with good supply of nuts.

Miscellaneous Info

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