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North West Ridge

North West Ridge

North West Ridge

Page Type: Route

Location: Hohe Tauern - Glockner Gruppe, Austria, Europe

Lat/Lon: 47.09920°N / 12.74530°E

Object Title: North West Ridge

Route Type: Glacier travel, rock climbing and some scree bashi

Time Required: Half a day

Difficulty: Rock 5.2 / UIAA II

Route Quality: 
 - 2 Votes


Page By: El Tigre Valderrama

Created/Edited: Aug 9, 2005 / Aug 21, 2005

Object ID: 166180

Hits: 2310 

Page Score: 71.06%  - 1 Votes 

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From the Oberwalderhütte cross the Südliches Bockkarkees (Glacier) towards the east, aiming at the Fuscherkarscharte (2841 m). From here you can start climbing the NW ridge, towards the final summit ridge.

Route Description

It is a basic climb that includes glacier travel (easy), some scree bashing and some easy rock climbing.

The route starts in the north side of the ridge and eventually climbs on the ridge itself. There are parts that can be either climbed directly on the ridge or by passed on the north and south side of it; the connection between the NW ridge and the SW ridge (another route goes on this ridge from the Gamsgrubeweg ) can be negotiated on the south side of the mountain. I recommended this when there is a lot of humidity, ice and unconsolidated snow (conditions when I climbed it.)

The final ridge is about 200 meters long and sharp. Go to the summit crucifix and enjoy the view of the Grossglockner.

Please be aware that the rock in the Fuscherkarkopf (or FKK, which also stands for “Freikörperkultur , that is, nudism or naturalism!) is very unconsolidated and weak, so be alert and keep safe.

Descent can be done either via the NW ridge, back to the hut, or the SW ridge, back to the Gamsgrubeweg ) and the Kaiser-Franz-Josefs-Höhe parking and tourist center.

Essential Gear

Glacier travel kit is mandatory. The glacier look fine and soft but I fell (or slide) once in a crevasse, so take care.

As the climb is very slippery, and the rock very shattering, you may want to have a rope for those team members who do not have a solid foot. Be careful when climbing this route when is wet.

Wind may be strong, so bring you jacket and minimal weather protection.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.


Fuscherkarkopf NW-ridge final partFuscherkarkopf NW-ridgeThe Mittlerer Bärenkopf from low on the NW ridge of the FuscherkarkopfRomariswandkopf, Eiskögele and JohannisbergEasier goingArrival at the OberwalderhütteNear the summit. Look at the...
The NW Ridge as seen from the...FuscherkarkopfA river on the glacierNW ridge of the FuscherkarkopfSteep trailBelayWhat happened to the Fuscherkarkees?
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