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Northeast Chimney

Northeast Chimney

Northeast Chimney

Page Type: Route

Location: United States, North America

Object Title: Northeast Chimney

Route Type: Trad Climbing

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter

Time Required: Less than two hours

Rock Difficulty: 5.7 (YDS)

Difficulty: 5.7

Number of Pitches: 2

Grade: I

Route Quality: 
 - 1 Votes


Page By: rpc

Created/Edited: May 13, 2008 / May 13, 2008

Object ID: 403490

Hits: 2909 

Page Score: 85.36%  - 20 Votes 

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This moderate line will put you on the pretty spectacular summit of Off-Balance Rock in two fun pitches. Climbing is well protected and quite fun! Pitch 2 is the "funner" one. FA information is not known. Belay and rap anchors have been cleaned up by the Arches Task Force - many thanks for their effort (link coming soon).

Getting There

Northeast Chimney

Follow directions on main page. Hike up to the base of northeast face of the tower staying in small washes and on slabs to avoid trampling the crpto soil!

Route Description

Northeast Chimney

Pitch 1: 5.6, 50 feet. Climb up the low angle, right facing dihedral for 20 feet. Traverse a sloping ledge 10 feet right and climb up another 20 feet (on left side of whitish rock) to a ledge with belay anchor.

Pitch 2: 5.7, 70 feet. Move into the squeeze immediately from belay. Walk/force your way along bottom till you see a crack above on left. Chimney up. Belay from anchors just below summit.

Descent: Single rappel with two ropes. Don't think a single 70 meter would make it in one shot anyway (not sure though).

Essential Gear

Double cams from blue Alien or TCU to #1 Camalot. Single #2 and optional #3 Camalots. One or two medium nuts. Two ropes.

External Links

See main page.


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