Bob, thanks for this page. There's a lot here that seems helpful. It looks as though I will get back to the Sierra this summer for a few days, and Middle Pal is an enticing objective.
Do you have an idea what the mileage is? I'd like to do it in a day-- will camp if necessary but prefer not to.
Secor’s description of the start of the Northeast Face route is no longer accurate. The elusive “ledge that climbs diagonally up and right” apparently no longer exists. On 9-14-19, I spent about a half hour looking for an alternative way up. I eventually found a way to traverse up and left on decent class 4 rock to an easy, low-angle, rotten chimney. The chimney went up and right. I continued up and right until I was in Secor’s chute.
Most people seem to have switched to the Red Banks variation, but the old cliffs are still climbable. Sorry I don’t have photos or a better description. Maybe someone else will do a better job of documenting the altered route.
Bob Sihler - Jan 5, 2012 5:52 pm - Hasn't voted
Distance?Bob, thanks for this page. There's a lot here that seems helpful. It looks as though I will get back to the Sierra this summer for a few days, and Middle Pal is an enticing objective.
Do you have an idea what the mileage is? I'd like to do it in a day-- will camp if necessary but prefer not to.
Won't be roping up for the glacier. ;-)
Bob Burd - Jan 6, 2012 2:18 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Distance?About 12mi round trip. Not bad at all. But the elevation gain is significant and you'll likely kill yourself if you don't rope up. :-)
Bob Sihler - Jan 6, 2012 11:35 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Distance?60 m or 30 m? :-)
Thanks, sounds good.
bobpickering - Sep 15, 2019 8:01 pm - Hasn't voted
Start of NE Face RouteSecor’s description of the start of the Northeast Face route is no longer accurate. The elusive “ledge that climbs diagonally up and right” apparently no longer exists. On 9-14-19, I spent about a half hour looking for an alternative way up. I eventually found a way to traverse up and left on decent class 4 rock to an easy, low-angle, rotten chimney. The chimney went up and right. I continued up and right until I was in Secor’s chute.
Most people seem to have switched to the Red Banks variation, but the old cliffs are still climbable. Sorry I don’t have photos or a better description. Maybe someone else will do a better job of documenting the altered route.