This is the ridge ( buttress ) that ascends from left to right and is left of the North Arete. From Dade Lake, climb up scree and slabs to the notch at the left end of the ridge. In heavy snow years some snow may be encountered.
Climb the ridge ( mostly class 2 -3 ) to a large tower which is passed on its left ( south ) side. When the ridge begins merging with the Northeast Face, stay a good ways below the North Arete and traverse south and up to the summit. This last section has some class 4 climbing. Climbing to the North Arete to soon ( to far north ) will increase both difficulties, exposure and excitement!
Descend the Northwest side ( Ulrichs Route ).
This is an excellent route - one of the 100 Classics of the High Sierra!
While many climbers could climb this route unroped, I recommend a spartan rock rack, a few runners and at least a 9mm rope for most climbers. Ice axes may be needed for both the approach and descent in heavy snow years.
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