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Northeast Ridge

Northeast Ridge

Northeast Ridge

Page Type: Route

Location: Alberta, Canada, North America

Lat/Lon: 50.62230°N / 114.9736°W

Object Title: Northeast Ridge

Route Type: Mountaineering

Season: Summer

Time Required: Most of a day

Difficulty: Moderate Scramble

Route Quality: 
 - 4 Votes


Page By: Dow Williams

Created/Edited: Jul 18, 2005 / Mar 12, 2006

Object ID: 165880

Hits: 2549 

Page Score: 72.08%  - 2 Votes 

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This is a 3300’+/- ascent day (your starts are high in this region via the pass). I was looking for a little exercise before spending a climbing week on more serious objectives in the Fryatt Valley. This was a perfect outing for such. This scramble was on the easy side of moderate. I will leave it moderate as that is how it is published. The route is extremely straight forward. Park at Highwood Pass and take the Ptarmigan Cirque Trail across the road and to its dead end.

Route Description

Continue left via a scramblers faint trail. Stay left and achieve the left handed col of the Ptarmigan cirque, scrambling up a large talus/scree gully. This col is approximately 9500' and once you top out you will have a great vantage point for Mount Rae’s summit to the north as well as its small glacier below the north side of the col.

Proceed right on the ridge for a short scramble and then traverse on a scramblers trail left to avoid a large obstacle on the ridge. Continue to angle upwards at all times until you reach the ridge again at about 10,000'. The final 500' is a joy. There was no summit register in 2004, but a significant summit cairn. You are treated to a good view of Opal Ridge to the north.

Return the same. I made this a fast three hour plus round trip, but had an acquaintance that just took 10.5 hrs. So obviously conditions and circumstances can vary.

Essential Gear

Alpine Ax and Helmet if Snow Conditions Prevail, Gaiters and Bear Spray


Mount Rae and what is left of...The Rae Glacier on the north...Looking back at your ascent...The Northeast Ridge Route of...Summit Photo on Mount Rae,...