Northeast Ridge

Approach

From the Pole Creek Trailhead at Elkhart Park, follow the Pole Creek trail (±5.5 miles), the Seneca Lake trail (±4.7 miles), the Indian Pass trail (±2.4 miles), and the Titcomb Basin trail (±3.0 miles), to the north end of upper Titcomb Lake. The Buttress is located on the left ±0.5 miles beyond the north end of upper Titcomb Lake. Total distance from the trailhead to the base of the climb is ±16 miles.

The northeast ridge forms the prominent northern skyline of The Buttress when viewed from the upper end of Titcomb Basin. Proceed to the broad base of the ridge along the east edge, and begin the climb at any suitable location.

Route Description

The climb of the northeast ridge will involve somewhere in the neighborhood of 6 to 10 pitches, depending on the starting location at the base of the ridge, and the location of belays.

The climb is rated 5.2, but there are abundant opportunities to make the climbing harder, and in some cases easier, depending on the desires of the climbing party. In general, the climbing seems to involve short crux moves followed by sections of easy class 3 or 4 scrambling.

The lower pitches involved the most sustained climbing, while the upper pitches tended to become easier and more interspersed with easy class 3 scrambling.

After 6-10 pitches the angle eases, and an easy scramble over several small minor summits brings you to the true summit.

Descent

An easy descent can be made by following the south ridge down towards Summer Ice Lake, the prominent lake visible to the southwest from the summit.

Before reaching the lake make a gradual contour southeast to a saddle south of The Buttress. From the saddle drop to the east back into Titcomb Basin via easy scrambling and boulder hopping.

Essential Gear

Approach shoes or rock shoes
Full set of nuts
Selection of cams to 2"
8-10 24" draws
One 50m or 60m rope

Images

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