Northern Aspect

Overview

This route is a nice side attraction off of the main Ptarmigan Traverse as it provides enjoyable scrambling across the full width of a north face with excellent views from the summit. We completed the round trip on the route in 1.5 hours from the glacier just prior to making the traverse under the Le Conte Ridge.

Getting There

See the main page and the Ptarmigan Traverse

Route Description

Beckey describes the route as:

Ascend snow patches to the shoulder SE, then ascend snow to its head on the NE spur of the summit. Climb gradually left to right to a wide ledge; this is followed W (shelves) to the ridge notch 150ft SW of the summit.

We ascended the snow to a loose rock-laden ledge which curves up and clockwise around the left end of the snow patch. This narrows into a 2-3 foot wide ledge which traverses almost all the way across the face. About midway across the face, a short turn takes you to an upper ledge near the middle notch, then continues on the ledge to the ridge notch SW of the summit (shown by the red line on the main photo). Turn left and scramble up the narrow, precipitous ridge to the summit.

We did not make the small turn up the center of the face, but instead continued on the original ledge, pulling around one block until we were directly below the summit notch. We then climbed a 4th class (caution) section straight up to the notch on excellent (solid and downcut) rock. This is shown by the green line. We descended the red route.

Overall you will gain ~1500' from the point where you leave the main Ptarmigan Traverse route.

Essential Gear

I would recommend a helmet. Crampons and piolet for the snow slope as it is pretty steep, but these can be ditch at the rock. Bring your camera; the summit views are excellent.

External Links

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Images

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