Northwest Face

Approach

For those of us who find Mount Toll's North Ridge to be beyond our abilities, this route provides a convenient way to combine a climb of Paiute Peak with a summit bid for Mount Toll. This makes the most sense as an extension of Paiute Peak's East Ridge route, but starting with any of Paiute's routes would work well. To reach the Paiute/Toll saddle from Paiute's summit, simply hike down Paiute's south ridge to the low point, staying west of any difficulties.

Alternately, you can make this climb your sole destination for the day. Follow the approach given on Ben's North Ridge page to the Paiute/Toll saddle.

Route Description

Please refer to this picture taken from Paiute's south ridge to aid in your climb. We followed cairns throughout this route, and they may aid in your progress.

From the Paiute/Toll saddle, start making an ascending traverse southwest, staying well below the north face's difficulties. You'll cross a loose gully before you climb a short rock rib. Next, climb a short pitch of third-class rock that's topped with a chockstone, which allows you to avoid smooth slabs below and to your right. Traverse to the right for a short time, climb up and over a rib, and enter a couloir. There are two couloirs in the area surrounding the rib, but you should take the larger right-hand couloir. Take great care in this couloir if it's melted out because it is rather loose. We found that the left side of the couloir next to the wall was the best place to climb because of stabler rock. Climb the couloir until you gain the saddle between Mount Toll and its southwest summit. Join the standard route and climb class 2 talus to the summit.

Essential Gear

An ice axe and crampons may be necessary in late spring and early summer.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Images

View Northwest Face Image Gallery - 4 Images