This can be approached from Green Lakes (access from Cascade Lakes road), but it is actually quicker to approach via Todd Lake and hike around the south side of the mountain. From Cascade Lakes road turn right on USFS 370, the road for Todd Lake. Follow this to USFS 380, turn left. Then follow the marked trail to Green Lakes.
Hike east from Green Lakes to a saddle on the ridge just below 8000 ft. Continue up the ridge on a trail until the NW corner of a 15 ft rock band is reached. Climb either a large crack left of the corner or a dirty groove 20 ft to the south. (Fourth or easy fifth class.)
Move up and right to a vertical wall forming part of the summit pinnacle. Follow a sloping ramp right (S) of the wall for about 60 ft until the wall can be climbed where it is about 6 ft high. Turn back to the North and scramble to the summit.
From Green lakes make your way to an easily visible saddle on the NOrthwest ridge. Once gaining the ridge follow it up to the base of the pinnacle where you encounter the crux of the climb. Once over the small bulge traverse to the right andmove upward gaining a small saddle and then traverse left to the summit. Although the other peak to the right looks higher, the one on the left is actually the higher one.
A slightly more adventurous option on this route is to do a direct finish up the northwest ridge instead of traversing around to the south after the short crack at the base of the summit pinnacle.
This variation is listed as route 26A in Jeff Thomas' Oregon High. It's about 50 feet of 5.4 climbing on pretty solid (at least compared to the rest of the mountsin) rock. The northwest ridge peters out into a 6 foot wide rock fin after the first crack and this is where the standard route begins traversing to the south. Instead, we roped up and climbed straight up the rock fin directly to the summit. The climbing is quite nice with great exposure off both sides of the fin. It protects OK and the rock is generally sound.
A 25' piece of webbing and a #9 Hex is all that I would suggest to be safe.
The 5.1 section is all of 15' and could be done free but has some exposure and would be risky if a fall were to occur
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