The base of the North ridge can either be accessed from the Sky Blue Lake basin or the plateau between Mallory and Irvine. From the west hike up the canyon from Sky Blue Lake toward Arc Pass. About a half-mile before the pass scramble up the hillside toward a small pinnacle at the base of Mallory's Northwest ridge. From the East climb either the slippery class 2 East Chute of Mallory(found just North of Mallory's East ridge) or any of the more difficult routes(mostly Class 4-5). From the plateau between Mallory and Irvine, head strait up the hillside heading west, between two receding snowfields(depending on the time of year). Wrap around the North side of the 25ft pinnacle at the base of the North ridge to the starting point.
Time required is from the Meysan Lakes trailhead.
From the base of the ridge at the pinnacle wrap around to the West Side of the ridgeline. The route follows the West Side of the ridge until the last 20ft of the climb. Soon after starting up the ridgeline pass through a 15ft chimney formed by a leaning slab(see picture). Then follow some very nice Class 3 rocks up the ridge until you reach a point where the rock in front of you becomes much steeper. At this point(about 20-30ft below the summit) a flat ledge becomes visible right on the spine of the North ridge. Climb another short Class 3 section to the plateau and traverse around to the East Side of the ridge(left as you ascend). From here it is a short scramble up to the summit. This makes a great connecting route for those attempting Irvine in the same day.
No gear is necessary for climbing this route during normal summer conditions. Early season crampons and ice axes may be needed for the ascent from Meysan to the saddle.
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