ApproachOne reaches the Diechterlimi from either the Trifthut over the Trift glacier in 3 hours or from the Gelmerhut up the Diechter glacier in 2 1/2 hours.
The warm weather has made the regular route up the Diechter glacier to the Diechterlimi, which traverses the SE corner of the glacier, dangerous due to rock fall. Climbing the glacier directly is objectively less dangerous, but it is very steep and in the early morning can be hard ice.
Go over the moraines to the Trift glacier and then over the glacier in a southerly direction to the Obri Triftlimi. Turn to the SW, up the slope to the Diechterlimi.
Route DescriptionFrom the Diechterlimi, traverse the glacier and snow slopes below the summit to reach the NW ridge. Cross the bregschrund (the only real problem on this route) to reach the NW ridge. From there it is some YDS class 3 scrambling and about 1 pitch of YDS 4th class on really nice rock to the summit.
Descend the way you came.
Essential GearRope may be needed for the short, exposed section of the ridge. A few slings a biners for protection.
Normal glacier traveling gear (ice axe, crampons) When I climbed it, a few parties were setting some screws on the direct, very steep glacier slope on the Diechterlimi approach. It was frozen hard and required great care to ascend. By afternoon it was soft and much easier, although still very steep. Again, care must be taken. A slip means a direct fall into rocks below.