W
I see you've still got a couple of misspellings of Hillary's name - Edmund, not Edmound/Edmond.
Also, why have those speed records and the first Canadian ascent in the table*, but not the 1980 Japanese FA of the Supercouloir or the 1984 Australian FA of the (Great) Norton Couloir ? The Japanese did the FA of the N face, not Messner and these are the two major routes on the face, more significant than the 1986 Canadians on the W ridge. I know I'm a bad person and all, but this is basic stuff and a bit disappointing in the page that is supposedly the best on SP, if I'm reading this new 'Best of ' page right.
Hi Damien. I only placed summit events that I found in books I have. The books I have list the Canadian achievements as well so I have included. I realize I am Canadian but its is not like I made it Bolder or highlighted it. I had an Italian ask me to include an ascent from the 80's that I could not find anywhere. I didn't because I could not verify the truth of what was sent me.
Its is not the official summit log by far. (•: (I never claimed it to be the best on SP. I only do the best I can with the time I can afford to the project.)
Sorry on all the Edmunds... thought I had caught all those a while back. (you are not the first to point them out). I will try and fix. Thanks for all the Antartic emails.
Cheers William
W
No worries. I actually only visited the page on this occasion because it was at: http://www.summitpost.org/list/276981/the-five-best-quality-pages.html
Isn't there another Top 10 somewhere too ?
Peter Gillman's book on Everest gives a good overview on the history, but you could also go down the list at adventurestats.com and pick out all the FAs.
Keep up the good work.
D
Does that translate to 29,028 feet? If so that is the old altitude mark. Was revised 10 years ago to 29,035 ft. If I have it wrong please provide a source where I can verify this. The altitude I have posted is what I find everywhere I have read. Let me know if I have missed a new measurement. Thanks and Cheers William
Leszek Cichy and Krzysztof Wielicki February 17 th, 1980, Polish expedition, leader Andrzej Zawada. Route: Normal.
It should be added that this was the first winter ascent of Everest :)
All in all great page!
cheers,
kamil
In my opinion a few points would deserve some update or correction though:
1) "Altitude 29035 ft / 8850 m"
Even though the National Geographic survey from 1999 gave an altitude of 8850m, this measurement is neither recognised by Nepal nor China, and I think the altitude of 8848m (29029ft), should remain the golden standard. In 2005, the Chinese measured it at 8844.4m, but this is the bedrock altitude, to which approx. 3.5m of snow cover should be added, making their measurement consistent with the earlier measurement at 8848m. Most authoritative sources give an altitude of 8848m.
2) ""Sagarmatha" meaning "Goddess of the Sky" to the Sherpa people, (invented in the 1960s by Baburam Acharya in response the the rising question that the Mountain had no Nepalese name)"
No, Sherpa people, who speak a variation of the Tibetan language, also call it Chomolungma, like Tibetans. As you mentioned, Sagarmatha was invented later to give it a Nepalese name, but Sherpa continue to call it Chomolungma.
3) The ancient name for the mountain is Devgiri, meaning "holy mountain" or Devadurga may have been pronounced it as deodungha by the English in the 1800s
Here again, the most ancient name is Chomolungma, as the mountain was named by people living in its surrounding both north (Tibetans) and South (Sherpa). Devadurga might have been the (Sanskrit) name in use in the 19th century, but this is certainly neither the local nor the most ancient name.
4) "The fall of the same year 1951 [...]. This time the mountain was to be attempted by the south col route in Nepal. The team succeeded in getting above the icefall but no further and were unsuccessful."
To my knowledge they actually did not reach the top of the icefall, even though they were closed to it.
5) The spring of 1952 saw a team of Swiss [...]. Halted by bad weather in the south col this team was unsuccessful.
The Swiss were not halted by the bad weather at the South Col, and Lambert/Tenzing did indeed reach an altitude of 8600m, higher than anybody at that time (assuming Mallory/Irvine did not make it higher in 1924). It is actually this expedition, which "opened" the S Col / SE ridge route, successfully climbed by the British expedition a year later.
6) Some notable successes
Worth to add would be the 1986 climb by Loretan/Troillet through the North Face (Hornbein Couloir) in pure alpine style, without oxygen and in 43 hours go and back (summit on 30 August 1986).
7) Getting there
The link to the picture seems to be broken
8) Getting there
Would be worth to add some more info on the approach via Tibet, as since 20 years a significant number of climbs are made from the North (check Corax or my pages for approaches via Tibet). BC is reachable by road (100km off the Friendship highway between Shelkar and Tingri).
9) Getting there. "To get to Nepal you will have to fly from either India, Thailand or Singapore"
I'm pretty sure there many more options than transiting through India, Thailand or Singapore nowadays. Just to mention one example, Qatar Airways via Doha is a popular option from Europe.
10) Getting there. "Royal Air Nepal"
The link doesn't work, and "Royal Air Nepal" has been renamed since "Nepal Airlines", see http://www.nepalairlines.com.np/
11) Getting there. " Fly on Royal Air Nepal's Twin Otter flights to Lukla"
See above for "Royal Air Nepal". Other airlines do also flight to Lukla, see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tenzing-Hillary_Airport
12) Getting there: "Note on recent bus cancellation to Juri"
Outdated information, the whole paragraph can be removed.
13) Red tape
Would be good to add the address of CTMA for the climb from Tibet side.
14) The walk-in from Lukla
Would be nice if the altitude is not only given in feet, but also in meters.
15) Guided climbs
Could be nice to add a couple of Nepalese outfitter to your list of commercial guiding services, such as Asian Trekking, Monterosa, Thamserku, in order not to have only western companies.
16) Political situation in Nepal
Outdated. Your text seems to be related to the 2006-2008 transition period between the peace agreement and the elections. The chapter can be dropped altogether, or just make mention that after 10 years of civil war (1996-2006), general elections were hold in 2008 and the monarchy abolished. However, political stability is yet to be achieved, with no less than three Prime Ministers since 2008, and the new constitution still under discussion...
17) Image for deletion
I don't know what this chapter is. Can be removed.
18) External links
Could be nice to add the following link, which is much more accurate and updated than adventurestats: http://www.8000ers.com/cms/everest-general-info-185.html
Thanks Bruno for the research. I will try an incorporated some of your requests when I have a moment. Let me digest and see what I can do.
Regards William
Hi William,
Please take your time, most of the points I mentioned are rather details. Most important in my opinion is the naming of the mountain by Sherpas.
An additional precision regarding the two 1952 Swiss Expeditions that took place in spring and autumn (you quoted:"The spring of 1952 saw a team of Swiss [...]. Halted by bad weather in the south col this team was unsuccessful").
Actually the Himalayan Database mention the following reasons for the abandon of the Swiss spring expedition: "Lack of supplies and equipment / Abandoned at 8600m due to fatigue".
Always according to the Himalayan Database, it is the autumn expedition which abandoned due to bad weather at 8100m, just above south col: "Bad weather (storms, high winds)".
Everest webcam has been installed by me and my staff under the activity of Ev-K2-CNR International Research Center the Pyramid at Lobuche, 5000 masl: http://www.evk2cnr.org/cms/en/evk2cnr_committee/pyramid
The Everest webcam shows south col and the final Pyramid above 8000, here the evaluation of wikipedia: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mount_Everest_webcam
To see Everest go here:
http://www.evk2cnr.org/WebCams/PyramidOne/everest-webcam.html
Please consider during monsoon (june to september) visibility can be limited, consider also Nepal time: UTC + 5:45
Pls contact me here gpverza@gmail.com for any further informations.
Thanks to Italian Council of Researches, to Nepal Academy of Science and Tecnology, and to Mobotics for equpipment.
Peterpyr
Alpinist - Mar 2, 2007 7:44 pm - Voted 10/10
Broken mapFYI William - the map window is broken in the Getting There section. Cheers.
William Marler - Mar 2, 2007 11:32 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Broken mapThanks. They seem to be breaking a lot. Cheers William
Damien Gildea - Mar 11, 2007 9:46 pm - Hasn't voted
Ed +W
I see you've still got a couple of misspellings of Hillary's name - Edmund, not Edmound/Edmond.
Also, why have those speed records and the first Canadian ascent in the table*, but not the 1980 Japanese FA of the Supercouloir or the 1984 Australian FA of the (Great) Norton Couloir ? The Japanese did the FA of the N face, not Messner and these are the two major routes on the face, more significant than the 1986 Canadians on the W ridge. I know I'm a bad person and all, but this is basic stuff and a bit disappointing in the page that is supposedly the best on SP, if I'm reading this new 'Best of ' page right.
D
* aside from you being Canadian, I mean :-)
William Marler - Mar 11, 2007 11:39 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Ed +Hi Damien. I only placed summit events that I found in books I have. The books I have list the Canadian achievements as well so I have included. I realize I am Canadian but its is not like I made it Bolder or highlighted it. I had an Italian ask me to include an ascent from the 80's that I could not find anywhere. I didn't because I could not verify the truth of what was sent me.
Its is not the official summit log by far. (•: (I never claimed it to be the best on SP. I only do the best I can with the time I can afford to the project.)
Sorry on all the Edmunds... thought I had caught all those a while back. (you are not the first to point them out). I will try and fix. Thanks for all the Antartic emails.
Cheers William
Damien Gildea - Mar 12, 2007 8:59 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Ed +W
No worries. I actually only visited the page on this occasion because it was at: http://www.summitpost.org/list/276981/the-five-best-quality-pages.html
Isn't there another Top 10 somewhere too ?
Peter Gillman's book on Everest gives a good overview on the history, but you could also go down the list at adventurestats.com and pick out all the FAs.
Keep up the good work.
D
William Marler - Mar 12, 2007 3:11 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Ed +Thanks I will check it out. Cheers William
BigLee - Jun 5, 2007 5:17 pm - Hasn't voted
More ascentsOne for your table...
Pemba Dorje Sherpa, new speed record, 8 hours and 10 minutes on May 21, 2004
William Marler - Jun 6, 2007 4:49 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: More ascentsThanks I will add when I get a moment free. Cheers William
darknight - Sep 29, 2007 9:05 am - Voted 10/10
about Elevationthe exact Elevation of everst is 8844.43m . sir
William Marler - Sep 29, 2007 2:46 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: about ElevationDoes that translate to 29,028 feet? If so that is the old altitude mark. Was revised 10 years ago to 29,035 ft. If I have it wrong please provide a source where I can verify this. The altitude I have posted is what I find everywhere I have read. Let me know if I have missed a new measurement. Thanks and Cheers William
kamil - Oct 9, 2007 2:25 pm - Voted 10/10
winter ascentLeszek Cichy and Krzysztof Wielicki February 17 th, 1980, Polish expedition, leader Andrzej Zawada. Route: Normal.
It should be added that this was the first winter ascent of Everest :)
All in all great page!
cheers,
kamil
William Marler - Oct 9, 2007 5:49 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: winter ascentThanks. By Normal do you mean south Col? Cheers William
kamil - Oct 9, 2007 5:55 pm - Voted 10/10
Re: winter ascentYes, that was via South Col, I pasted the text from the chart at the Everest main page.
cheers,
k
William Marler - Oct 10, 2007 12:18 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: winter ascentThanks. Yes I figured that out when I went to edit the chart. Thanks again. Cheers William
Diego Sahagún - Oct 27, 2008 8:09 pm - Voted 10/10
El largo camino de Yorkshire al Everesthttp://www.desnivel.com/newsletter/desnivelaldia/object.php?o=17710&p=noticia.3/noticia.3.1.php&print=
Bruno - Mar 9, 2011 8:04 am - Hasn't voted
Some update and correctionsThanks William for this nice page.
In my opinion a few points would deserve some update or correction though:
1) "Altitude 29035 ft / 8850 m"
Even though the National Geographic survey from 1999 gave an altitude of 8850m, this measurement is neither recognised by Nepal nor China, and I think the altitude of 8848m (29029ft), should remain the golden standard. In 2005, the Chinese measured it at 8844.4m, but this is the bedrock altitude, to which approx. 3.5m of snow cover should be added, making their measurement consistent with the earlier measurement at 8848m. Most authoritative sources give an altitude of 8848m.
2) ""Sagarmatha" meaning "Goddess of the Sky" to the Sherpa people, (invented in the 1960s by Baburam Acharya in response the the rising question that the Mountain had no Nepalese name)"
No, Sherpa people, who speak a variation of the Tibetan language, also call it Chomolungma, like Tibetans. As you mentioned, Sagarmatha was invented later to give it a Nepalese name, but Sherpa continue to call it Chomolungma.
3) The ancient name for the mountain is Devgiri, meaning "holy mountain" or Devadurga may have been pronounced it as deodungha by the English in the 1800s
Here again, the most ancient name is Chomolungma, as the mountain was named by people living in its surrounding both north (Tibetans) and South (Sherpa). Devadurga might have been the (Sanskrit) name in use in the 19th century, but this is certainly neither the local nor the most ancient name.
4) "The fall of the same year 1951 [...]. This time the mountain was to be attempted by the south col route in Nepal. The team succeeded in getting above the icefall but no further and were unsuccessful."
To my knowledge they actually did not reach the top of the icefall, even though they were closed to it.
5) The spring of 1952 saw a team of Swiss [...]. Halted by bad weather in the south col this team was unsuccessful.
The Swiss were not halted by the bad weather at the South Col, and Lambert/Tenzing did indeed reach an altitude of 8600m, higher than anybody at that time (assuming Mallory/Irvine did not make it higher in 1924). It is actually this expedition, which "opened" the S Col / SE ridge route, successfully climbed by the British expedition a year later.
6) Some notable successes
Worth to add would be the 1986 climb by Loretan/Troillet through the North Face (Hornbein Couloir) in pure alpine style, without oxygen and in 43 hours go and back (summit on 30 August 1986).
7) Getting there
The link to the picture seems to be broken
8) Getting there
Would be worth to add some more info on the approach via Tibet, as since 20 years a significant number of climbs are made from the North (check Corax or my pages for approaches via Tibet). BC is reachable by road (100km off the Friendship highway between Shelkar and Tingri).
9) Getting there. "To get to Nepal you will have to fly from either India, Thailand or Singapore"
I'm pretty sure there many more options than transiting through India, Thailand or Singapore nowadays. Just to mention one example, Qatar Airways via Doha is a popular option from Europe.
10) Getting there. "Royal Air Nepal"
The link doesn't work, and "Royal Air Nepal" has been renamed since "Nepal Airlines", see http://www.nepalairlines.com.np/
11) Getting there. " Fly on Royal Air Nepal's Twin Otter flights to Lukla"
See above for "Royal Air Nepal". Other airlines do also flight to Lukla, see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tenzing-Hillary_Airport
12) Getting there: "Note on recent bus cancellation to Juri"
Outdated information, the whole paragraph can be removed.
13) Red tape
Would be good to add the address of CTMA for the climb from Tibet side.
14) The walk-in from Lukla
Would be nice if the altitude is not only given in feet, but also in meters.
15) Guided climbs
Could be nice to add a couple of Nepalese outfitter to your list of commercial guiding services, such as Asian Trekking, Monterosa, Thamserku, in order not to have only western companies.
16) Political situation in Nepal
Outdated. Your text seems to be related to the 2006-2008 transition period between the peace agreement and the elections. The chapter can be dropped altogether, or just make mention that after 10 years of civil war (1996-2006), general elections were hold in 2008 and the monarchy abolished. However, political stability is yet to be achieved, with no less than three Prime Ministers since 2008, and the new constitution still under discussion...
17) Image for deletion
I don't know what this chapter is. Can be removed.
18) External links
Could be nice to add the following link, which is much more accurate and updated than adventurestats: http://www.8000ers.com/cms/everest-general-info-185.html
Cheers,
Bruno
William Marler - Mar 10, 2011 1:37 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Some update and correctionsThanks Bruno for the research. I will try an incorporated some of your requests when I have a moment. Let me digest and see what I can do.
Regards William
Bruno - Mar 13, 2011 4:13 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Some update and correctionsHi William,
Please take your time, most of the points I mentioned are rather details. Most important in my opinion is the naming of the mountain by Sherpas.
An additional precision regarding the two 1952 Swiss Expeditions that took place in spring and autumn (you quoted:"The spring of 1952 saw a team of Swiss [...]. Halted by bad weather in the south col this team was unsuccessful").
Actually the Himalayan Database mention the following reasons for the abandon of the Swiss spring expedition: "Lack of supplies and equipment / Abandoned at 8600m due to fatigue".
Always according to the Himalayan Database, it is the autumn expedition which abandoned due to bad weather at 8100m, just above south col: "Bad weather (storms, high winds)".
Cheers,
Bruno
Gabriele Roth - May 19, 2011 2:37 pm - Hasn't voted
new webcampeterpyr - Aug 21, 2014 5:10 pm - Hasn't voted
Everest webcamEverest webcam has been installed by me and my staff under the activity of Ev-K2-CNR International Research Center the Pyramid at Lobuche, 5000 masl: http://www.evk2cnr.org/cms/en/evk2cnr_committee/pyramid
The Everest webcam shows south col and the final Pyramid above 8000, here the evaluation of wikipedia: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mount_Everest_webcam
To see Everest go here:
http://www.evk2cnr.org/WebCams/PyramidOne/everest-webcam.html
Please consider during monsoon (june to september) visibility can be limited, consider also Nepal time: UTC + 5:45
Pls contact me here gpverza@gmail.com for any further informations.
Thanks to Italian Council of Researches, to Nepal Academy of Science and Tecnology, and to Mobotics for equpipment.
Peterpyr