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andyinthorneUntitled Comment

andyinthorne

Hasn't voted

i just came down from tocllaraju with a guide from Huaraz. we had to turn back because more, wider cravasses have appeared over the last few weeks. more gear needed if you want to attempt the summit. also, the last few hundred meters before high camp are dangerous. this has changed and the end of the glacier is shedding rocks every few minutes. about 100 meters cubed went 50 meters from where we just wlked. very dangerous.

Posted Dec 11, 2004 4:54 pm

ClimberMan420West Face June 8th 2007

ClimberMan420

Hasn't voted

Gain face at highest part(left) of the bergshrund. The bergrshrund was wel open but on teh right side of the highest part it was crossable and here the cliff on the other sside is smallest. May have to hack a notch in it if its to snowy to climb. Climb face directly slowly travrsing to the right past the exposed rocks. Pass the seracs and ice cliffs to the right for the easiest and most direct access to the South west ridge6-8 pitches.

Follow the mellow ridge to the summit. The ridge is easy but has some interesting features of ice cliffs and crevasses to negotiate. It should stay in good shape most of the season. The most likely problem will be the bergshrund at the bottom of the face to access the climb. I suggest an acclimatization day to hike up to the face breaking trail and find access. We used almost exclusively snow stakes and a few ice screw near the top. Climbing 2 ropes and three people we were about 9 hours on the face and then 1 1/2 more on teh ridge pitching up it although a running belay or even solo free climbing could do.

Descend the North ridge hopefully on an already established boot pack as the north ridge is a cvery popular climb. A 50m rappel is a convenient way to descend from teh summit shoulder on teh north ridge.

Brad Johson rates teh face a D+ and the north ridge a D but the ridge as of June 07 was a walk down most of it.
Posted Jun 14, 2007 9:10 am

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