Sydpilaren, south pillar Mongejura Additions and Corrections

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hucksquaw

hucksquaw - Aug 7, 2015 6:31 am - Hasn't voted

Wrong grade conversions!

The grade conversions on this page are totaly wrong. Grade 6 norwegian is not 5.9+ and grade 6- norwegian is definitely not 5.8. Grade 6 is closer 5.10 climbing and 6- is closer to 5.10- (or maybe old school 5.9+). If 5.9 climbers go up on this route thinking it will be a cruiser, they are in for a surprise.

surfarn73

surfarn73 - Oct 31, 2015 7:44 pm - Hasn't voted

Right grades

Totallly wrong?? I say that its perfect for 5.9 climbers who is used to long routes. I climb 5.9 in the US at my best. I have climbed many Classic 5.9 routes in Yosemite and I say that its app. the same difficulty as norweigen grade 6. But its a long route and doing a grade 6 on ropelength 16 can be hard. I have climbed the route four times.
Best regards surfarn 73

Borrows - Feb 1, 2019 8:36 am - Voted 10/10

Re: Right grades

Totaly correct Surfarn73.

giuseppe_miotti - Sep 4, 2021 7:35 am - Hasn't voted

Some memories

I climbed the route in 2007. I found it hard because it's quite athletic. I confirm the grade. We only found two pegs in 24 pitches. We took 12 hours (three climbers team). I wish to point that after the last difficult pitch there are some other easy pitches. It was dark and maybe we mistook the right route but we climbed some other 4/5 pitches grade III/IV. Fantastic route!!!!

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