Thanks for the comment. I felt it has to be described thoroughly as there are not many good descriptions around. Checking your "Climbers Logs" the route is absolutely "your style".
Cheers, Michael
@"your style"
I wonder what my style is... can you give details for your appraisement? :-)
selinunte01 - Jan 29, 2016 11:51 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Superb!
Well, I see Barre des Erins, Aletschhorn, Weißhorn, Bietschhorn and so on on your Climber´s Log list......
any more questions about "your style" ?? :-)
Happy climbing, Michael
Due to overnight issues 13cimes regularly are traversed ClockWise.
As a result, often the last Peaks (Dosegu, Tresero) are skipped, because the day from Vioz to Seveso or even Forni is very long and most of the mountaineers do not want to carry a stove etc. What's more, from P.S.Matteo the descent directly leads back to the starting point whereas the glacier descend from Tresero seems tricky and the path down from Seveso leads to Gavia Pass.
Regarding technical difficulties I would recommend to go Counter(!)-ClockWise. So most of the steeper climbing is uphill. You then do have to rely on the bivouacs. Plus: The mandatory bivouac nights are right in the beginning and the pack becomes lighter day by day ;-)
Transfer back from Forni to Berni is easy: There is a Jeep taxi operating from Pizzini or Forni to San Caterina Valfura (10€ pP) and there you can either hire another taxi from the same operator (expensive) or hitchhike up th Gavia road.
As Michael explained the glacier descent from Pizzo Tresero to Alb. Forni in his article, I'd like to add the descent to Rif. Berni on the Gavia Pass road:
As supposed, most of that route is on a well-maked path (as long as there is no fresh snow...).
Just pay attention right at the beginning: After ten minutes of downclimbing, leave the ridge with the aid of three fixed ropes towards the left (south) side and plod down the scree/snow field below the arrete. This circumvents the Bivacco Seveso!
To access the bivacco, either
a) re-climb the arrete somewhat below (well visible; height difference to re-gain about 50m)
b) stay on the arrete the whole time and traverse one Gendarme (another fixed rope and subsequently two more bolts to belay a UIAA 3 slab traverse to the right)
The Bivacco Seveso is well-equipped with blankets and sleeps nine. Water has to be melted (snow field 50m below).
The rest of the descent in dry conditions is a marked path leading through the south side of the SW-arrete and ending at the punta amicia (friendship bridge). From there, it is just a twenty-minute walk on nearly flat ground to Rif. Berni.
Flachlandtiroler - Sep 23, 2015 4:05 am - Voted 10/10
Superb!It's not only this route is on the "must have" list for a long time... the report is really very detailed.
selinunte01 - Oct 20, 2015 7:07 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Superb!Thanks for the comment. I felt it has to be described thoroughly as there are not many good descriptions around. Checking your "Climbers Logs" the route is absolutely "your style".
Cheers, Michael
Flachlandtiroler - Jan 29, 2016 7:26 am - Voted 10/10
Re: Superb!Hi Michael,
@"your style"
I wonder what my style is... can you give details for your appraisement? :-)
selinunte01 - Jan 29, 2016 11:51 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Superb!Well, I see Barre des Erins, Aletschhorn, Weißhorn, Bietschhorn and so on on your Climber´s Log list......
any more questions about "your style" ?? :-)
Happy climbing, Michael
Flachlandtiroler - Sep 5, 2018 11:57 pm - Voted 10/10
Comment on sense of directionDue to overnight issues 13cimes regularly are traversed ClockWise.
As a result, often the last Peaks (Dosegu, Tresero) are skipped, because the day from Vioz to Seveso or even Forni is very long and most of the mountaineers do not want to carry a stove etc. What's more, from P.S.Matteo the descent directly leads back to the starting point whereas the glacier descend from Tresero seems tricky and the path down from Seveso leads to Gavia Pass.
Regarding technical difficulties I would recommend to go Counter(!)-ClockWise. So most of the steeper climbing is uphill. You then do have to rely on the bivouacs. Plus: The mandatory bivouac nights are right in the beginning and the pack becomes lighter day by day ;-)
Transfer back from Forni to Berni is easy: There is a Jeep taxi operating from Pizzini or Forni to San Caterina Valfura (10€ pP) and there you can either hire another taxi from the same operator (expensive) or hitchhike up th Gavia road.
Flachlandtiroler - Sep 6, 2018 12:02 am - Voted 10/10
Comment on Tresero descentAs Michael explained the glacier descent from Pizzo Tresero to Alb. Forni in his article, I'd like to add the descent to Rif. Berni on the Gavia Pass road:
As supposed, most of that route is on a well-maked path (as long as there is no fresh snow...).
Just pay attention right at the beginning: After ten minutes of downclimbing, leave the ridge with the aid of three fixed ropes towards the left (south) side and plod down the scree/snow field below the arrete. This circumvents the Bivacco Seveso!
To access the bivacco, either
a) re-climb the arrete somewhat below (well visible; height difference to re-gain about 50m)
b) stay on the arrete the whole time and traverse one Gendarme (another fixed rope and subsequently two more bolts to belay a UIAA 3 slab traverse to the right)
The Bivacco Seveso is well-equipped with blankets and sleeps nine. Water has to be melted (snow field 50m below).
The rest of the descent in dry conditions is a marked path leading through the south side of the SW-arrete and ending at the punta amicia (friendship bridge). From there, it is just a twenty-minute walk on nearly flat ground to Rif. Berni.