Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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46.60900°N / 12.89500°E |
Route Type:
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Hiking, Mountaineering, Scrambling |
Season:
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Summer, Fall |
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Time Required:
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A long day |
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Difficulty:
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Easy climbing up to UIAA II. |
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Getting There
The scheme of the route over the east slopes.The starting point is the pass Passo di Monte Croce / Plöckenpass. Here is also a big parking place where you leave your vehicle.
From the North
There are two possible roads:
* From Kitzbühel over B108 through the Felbertauern Tunnel to Lienz, then southeast to Oberdrauburg and Kötschach-Mauthen (B110), where you turn to direction Plöckenpass / Italy.
* From Salzburg along motorway A10 to Spittal. Turn west on B100 to Oberdrauburg, there south to Kötschach-Mauthen were you stay on B110 to the pass Passo di Monte Croce / Plöckenpass.
From the South (Udine)
Take Motorway A23 to the exit Camia Tolmezzo. Follow SS52 north to Tolmezzo where you turn onto SS52 bis. This leads to the pass Passo di Monte Croce / Plöckenpass.
Route Description
On the grassy slope of the ridge Cresta Verde.From the parking place you must find the marked route 146 and you continue over it in the west direction through the forest and later over the grassy slopes. This route crosses in many switchbacks the south slopes of Creta di Collinetta / Cellon, 2238m. Soon you come to the first crossing where you can go to the left or to the right (route 147). Both routes later join on the higher grassy slopes. If you go here to the right, you must later on the next crossing turn to the left (the right possibility goes to the start of ferrata). If you go to the left on the crossing, you must later turn to the right (the left route goes to Rif. Marinelli, 2122m and some more mountains around).
On the first section of the east ridge.
Scrambling on the east ridge.Both possibilities join higher on the steep grassy slopes of the ridge Cresta Verde, 2150m. You reach the ridge just below the main border ridge in many switchbacks over the steep grassy slope. Here on the crossing you turn to the left and you reach the ridge of Cresta Verde. Over the nice path you cross the grassy rirdge and you come to the start of the east face and ridge.
First you ascend some meters over the grass and then you turn to the left over the rocky slope. Here you climb the hardest part. Around 20 meters of UIAA II. Upper you come to the small ravine and you ascend over the best passages to the next grassy slope. You will not lose because the route is well marked. You have to climb some easy passages also and soon you come on the upper not so steep slope below the northeast ridge. You reach the ridge and with easy climbing on the ridge you reach the summit of Creta di Collina. From the summit you have to descend a bit over the south ridge to the crossing.
Fabrizio (ganesh70) nicely described the route over the ridge: You follow the ledge that goes towards Creta della Cjanevate. Going through the italian military emplacements of the WWI the easy ( not above UIAA I but very exposed ) ledges take you straight before the east base of the main summit of the mountain. All the way the views are fantastic to all directions, but in particular to the Coglians group and the green mountains on your left.
The last part looks difficult from far but when you reach it you realize that is an easy scramble that in a few minutes will take you to the west summit of Creta della Cjanevate/Kellerspitzen.
You descend by the normal approach over the south ridge (check the description).