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Parinacota Climber's Log

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leithianChilean side  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Nov 14, 2014
Started from Parinacota village, hitching up to the main road. Another hitching till the big lake. Then walking through old lava fields maze for 4 hours until the high camp at 4930m. Lost my way couple of times since I was alone, the jeep tracks were winding through the lava fields like crazy.
Started the ascent at 4am next morning, in the dark, barely able to see the track going upwards. Lost my trail again in the rocks, just followed to the nearest white spot. At the beginning the penitentes were really high, like 60-80cm, almost impassable. Later it became much more walkable, though way too many crevasses to jump over. I believe I must have chosen the worst part of the glacier but somehow I finally managed to get to the crater rim.
Loosing my way so many times in the dark, not knowing the correct way made this one probably one of my most demanding acsent so far. I was completely alone on the mountain that day. But wievs were really worth the effort! :) so as my altitude record.
Posted Nov 21, 2014 9:44 pm

boisedocslog  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 13, 2014

boisedoc

In the late winter, there was very little now left (maybe from 19500-20500ft). Mostly hiking on volcanic scree and then the snowfield (in very poor condition). The descent was 5000ft of scree skiing. I was excited to climb such a high mountain- 20800ft which is the highest I have ever been- but the climbing itself was pretty boring. Certainly cold and exhausting. Good views of Pomerape and Sajama. We got a ride in a 4x4 from the village of Sajama up to about 5100meters (they are technically not supposed to drive that high but will do it at night
Posted Aug 17, 2014 10:31 pm

matthias.pabstNormal route from Col  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 15, 2014

matthias.pabst

A very long ascent on scree and then on some snowfield with early penitentes. Pretty hard as it was the third day in a row doing more than 1000m of altitude gain. Made it and the view was amazing. No wind so I was on top in a merino shirt and softshell jacket. Fast decent on another route through scree and sand.
Posted Jun 21, 2014 9:06 pm

PackmuleParinacota  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 9, 2014
There is a jeep track from the Bolivian village of Sajama to base camp. There are two routes, one goes from hut at 5100M up a zigzag trail onto a ridge up to snowline & then directly up to summit, the other goes from the pass at about 5300M up to the summit. The route from the hut is steeper but more direct.
Nearly everyone doing this route from Bolivian side is now going by jeep to base camp. It is difficult to walk in as there is no water en route or when you get to base camp. It has been a very dry winter so the snowline is high (about 5800 metres) & the snowfield is in very poor condition, broken up with lots of small penitentes. This makes for a tough climb up on loose sand & scree & it is not any easier when you get on the snow. There are no technical difficulties & if you have any idea what you're doing you don't need a rope, just ice axe, crampons, two walking poles for below the snowline & lots of warm clothes including good plastic boots & gloves. There are access issues at the hut, it is not controlled by the national park but by a family living on the hill & as they are trying to charge people (illegally) to cross their land few people are using the hut at the moment.
Get to Sajama on the minibus every day at noon from Patacamaya (on the La Paz -> Oruro road) or get a bus from La Paz to the frontier (Tambo Quemado) & get off at Lagunas, about 10KM from the frontier. From Lagunas you should be able to arrange a jeep to Sajama for about 70 Bolivianos.
Posted Jun 18, 2014 10:53 am

brotaNormal Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Mar 22, 2013

brota

I arrived to Sajama village by minibus after 5pm, rented crampons and ice axe and at still at night walked towards the peak. At midnight arrived reasonably close and camped at 5080 mts. At 6am I started hiking towards the base camp and high camp (had to descend below 5000 mts). Basically started the climb at 8.30 am from the saddle at 5300 mts. From 5400 mts it was all on snow.
Technically easy walk up but I was tired from the beginning and was having stomach problems. From 6100 mts it was harder as the snow had melted. Reached the peak at 1.30 pm. According to the local guides I was the first one on the top this season. Awesome climb. So far my highest peak. After that three days more hiking in the area and hot springs. No time for Sajama unfortunately.
If hiking, get informed well by the locals, there is a minefield nearby!
Posted Mar 27, 2013 3:30 am

Woodie HopperFrom Bolivia  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 20, 2012

Woodie Hopper

Climbed from below the saddle. There was more snow than usual this year (beginning a little above the saddle) in good condition for cramponing, but too hard and irregular for a glissade on the way down. We were on pace to top out in about 4 hours, but high winds prevented that. I stopped short of the summit hoping for the wind to die down after sunrise, but that didn't happen. Frost-nipped finger tips are still somewhat numb today.
Posted May 23, 2012 8:33 pm

bighornmonkeyon foot from Sajama  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 15, 2011

bighornmonkey

At the village of Sajama they wanted 800 Bolivianos (USD$ 120) to give us a roundtrip ride to the Parinacota BC. So instead, we decided to walk...that was actually a really pleasant approach. It took us 5 hours of effort to get within striking distance of the summit. On the approach, we were concerned with availability of water but that turned out not to be an issue.
From the saddle between the two volcanos, it took us about 7 hours to reach the summit. about 5 hours of grueling penitentes to surmount. Very cold and windy day!
Did another 6000m peak (Sajama, highest peak in Bolivia) two days prior. First 6000m twofer. Hee haa!
Posted Aug 29, 2011 10:53 am

edomar2611Classic Route from Bolivian side  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 21, 2009

edomar2611

I spent one night close to the pass between Parinacota and Pomerape at 5200 m. Then I started at 2 a.m.; no wind, a little cold. Wonderful view of Pomerape and Sajama when the sun was rising. The snow begun at 5700 m with penitentes. I reached the summit at 8 a.m. with a great view of the crater and of the desert with Pomerape and Sajama.
Posted Mar 14, 2011 2:36 pm

rggFrom Bolivian side  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 19, 2009

rgg

In the early hours, it was very cold, but once the sun got out, it got quite nice. Spent an hour hiking around a large part of the crater rim.

There were only a few stretches of snow and penitentes, but high on the mountain, the scree made for slow going. For every two steps we went up, we slid down one.
The ascent took about 8 hours, the descent about two. We took a slightly different route on the descent, mostly straight down a very long scree slope,
Posted Oct 14, 2010 11:48 am

monkeypikeNorthern Summit From Bolivia  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 18, 2010

monkeypike

Climbed up the easy path to the summit from high camp in 6 hours. There was almost no snow on the mountain and it was possible to summit without ice axe or crampons.

Climbed with Ignacio from Sajama who we also climbed Pomerape and Sajama with and I would highly recommend. You can contact him through the park office in Sajama village.
Posted Aug 25, 2010 3:22 pm

MountainHikerCOFrom Bolivia  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 17, 2000

MountainHikerCO

Climbed up to the saddle from the Bolivian side. Probably then crossed into Chile to get to where we accessed the glacier. Lots of ice penitentes on the glacier in rows perpendicular to the fall line.
Posted Dec 31, 2007 2:08 pm

tatramanParinacota ski descent  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 20, 2006

tatraman

we climbed from the coll between Parinacota and POmerape and skied down afetrwards. Great views into the crater, long walk, technically absolutelly easy. Fierce winds and very low temperatures at dawn, though (below - 25deg. C)
Posted Sep 25, 2007 7:12 am

Peak_BaggerSnowy Ascent  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 18, 2005

Peak_Bagger

Big storm came in and dropped 1/2 m of fresh snow. Wish I had my board with me. Pretty grueling snow plow up to the summit in 7 hrs from base camp, but a quick 1 hr glisaade back down.
Posted Apr 17, 2007 5:02 am

Fabrice.RimlingerCustom Route !  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Apr 7, 2006

Fabrice.Rimlinger

Solo from Sajama and first to summit this year. Snowed the night before and climbing was tough ! 7h from BC to summit... the best part was coming down, sitting on top my backpack.. big fun !
Posted Nov 11, 2006 3:33 pm

FrançoisJRoute Climbed : Normal Bolivian side  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 28, 2005

FrançoisJ

Pika and I circled round the crater rim of Parinacota on 28th of july 2005. As I wanted to know where really was located the highest point of its crater, I brought my GPS with me. It appears that neither north summit nor south summit is the real summit, not because they have rather equal height (6347 m vs 6348 m, +/- 1 m, who can tell?) but because North-west summit is about 10 meters higher than both of them (6357 m).
Absolute heights may not be accurate but differences of height could be considered such as.
Many thanks to Pika and all Planetaventura(.com) team!
Posted Feb 15, 2006 5:41 pm

Guillaume.CeyracRoute Climbed: Bolivian Date Climbed: 12 October 2006  Sucess!

Guillaume.Ceyrac

Went back there, but this time from the bolivian side, and this time summit ! Went up in 7 hours from the base camp located between Pomerape and Parinacota. Perfect weather, a bit of cold before sunrise and penitents on the last 300 meters. Amazing views of the crater and of Sajama.



I did the climb with Ignacio, a "guide" from Sajama village (approx 100 USD, including 4x4 approach from/to Sajama).
Posted Jan 16, 2006 10:32 am

BergrotRoute Climbed: Normal Bolivia Date Climbed: 7 Nov 2002  Sucess!

Bergrot

Walked solo from Sajama to the camp below the col. Needed two days because I walked the direct line from Sajama to the col and crossed a lot of old, dusty lava streams. Enough snow for cooking close to the camp on the Pomerape side of the valley. In 7 hrs from camp to summit in a clear, sunny and warm day ( -2°C). The surprising appearance of the huge summit crater was one of the most exciting moments in my mountaineering life. Had a great view up to the Cordillera Real ~200km away. No one else at the mountain at this time.
Posted Oct 24, 2005 12:37 pm

JoshRoute Climbed: Northeast Gully Date Climbed: Sept 21 2005  Sucess!

Josh

Lots of snow made this one a real marathon. I often fell to my knees and a few times to my waist in the deep powder. I wish I had my board and I could have ripped a nice 1200m line down!!!

Technically very easy, but I recommend sticking to the rock rib, it will be a lot faster, and the only choice when there isn't much snow. It also appeared that an approach from Chile and Lago Chungara would be much shorter and the routes similar, just a a longer but easy traverse along the crater to the summit.
Posted Sep 24, 2005 6:18 pm

Guillaume.CeyracRoute Climbed: Chilean side Date Climbed: August 2004

Guillaume.Ceyrac

Went there with PO and Eric, also from France. We took a guide at Putre (the owner of agency Aymaruta in Putre) and went at a BC at approx. 5000m. to spend the night. Next morning, we began to climb at 4 O'clock. We had 2 hours of climb on big rocks, sometimes a bit steep, before arriving at snow (at around 5700m). The snow was very icy and with little grietas everywhere. As the slope was becoming quite steep for these snow conditions, I told the guide that we should use a rope... He went a bit embarassed to tell us that he had forgot the rope at BC... I decided to go back.

I am returning there in October 2005 on the bolivian side.



My message is clear : unless they changed radicaly, don't attempt Parinacota with this company (Aymaruta) ! They were expensive, they provided poor equipment, they had very poor skills in mountainering and no experience of guiding people.
Posted Aug 24, 2005 3:20 am

althegreekRoute Climbed: from the west(no route name) Date Climbed: may 29 2005  Sucess!

althegreek

we decided to climb from the west side of the mountain. its a perfect cone so you can basically ascend from where ever you want. our route went up a steep gully full of penitentes. i don´t recommend this route due to the bad snow conditions and a super long approach. go from the south or from bolivia.

Posted Aug 18, 2005 4:19 pm

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