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Passo degli Uncini

 
Passo degli Uncini

Page Type: Route

Location: Toscana (Tuscany), Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 44.05243°N / 10.23398°E

Object Title: Passo degli Uncini

Route Type: Hiking, Scrambling

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall

Time Required: Half a day

Difficulty: Scramble

Route Quality: 
 - 1 Votes
 

 

Page By: Gangolf Haub

Created/Edited: Sep 2, 2009 / Sep 2, 2009

Object ID: 548430

Hits: 1158 

Page Score: 71.06%  - 1 Votes 

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Overview

 
The start of the north face traverse
Start of the north face traverse

There are two routes to Monte Altissimo, of which the north-western one through Foce del Frate and Passo degli Uncini is the more difficult and more exciting one. It follows the north-west ridge of the mountain for most of the way and avoids the steepest section of the ridge by traversing the steep and exposed north face of the mountain. Generally, the route is very steep and you can managge to climb the 650m of elevation gain in two hours. However, thanks to the picturesque towers and gendarmes on the ridge, most hikers take their time.

The character of the route ranges from a steep scramble across loose ground through a dense beech forest at the start to an exposed rock-hopping ridge traverse with a steep face climb at the end. The final section returns to the ridge, where it turns into a balancing act above the huge south-west face of the mountain. The summit, however, turns out to be quite broad, almost plateau-like.

Getting There

The route starts at the Ristorante le Gobbie on the road from Massa to Castelnuovo. The main page for the mountain details the itneraries.

Route Description

Monte Focoraccia
Monte Focoraccia

  • General:
      - Start altitude: 1037m
      - Summit altitude: 1589m
      - Prevailing exposure: North and South
      - Type: Steep exposed hike
      - Protection: None
  • Effort: 600m
  • Power: 2 - Steep
  • Psyche: 3 - A lot of exposure on the ridge and during the north face traverse
  • Difficulty: 2 - Steep hike
  • Orientation: 3 - Easy up to the face traverse, there the correct path is hard to see and dangerous to lose

    From the parking lot at Ristorante le Gobbie cross the road and follow the signpost "Monte Altissimo". The path heads down into a narrow valley, Canale di Grotta Giancona, which it follows for the first part. The path leads through a dense, dark forest and finally heads out onto a dirt road (old marble transport road). Turn left onto the road and immediately leave it to the right and head up a very steep slope. The ground is loose and the hike turns very strenuous. A few switchbacks finally take you up to a saddle, Foce del Frate.
     
    Foce del Frate
     
     
    Leaning gendarme
     
     
    Looking towards Carrara
     

    To both sides of the saddle you can find leaning gendarmes which can be climbed for better views. Turn left and pass the gendarme on the left hand (eastern) side. You will pass several of these saddles, all with nice views towards the Tyrhenean Sea. Finally you'll reach Passo degli Uncini, where the west ridge of Monte Altissimo starts.
     
    First part of the west ridge
     
     
    Cava Tacca Bianca
     
     
    West ridge
     

    Turn onto the ridge and follow it towards the summit. the path switches sides frequently until you reach a small saddle, right before the steepest part of the ridge. Here the path turns left and leads into the north face of the mountain. The face turns steep and the path winds its way even more steeply upwards.
    Back on the ridge
    On the summit ridge

    In the end it turns south towards the summit and returns to the west ridge of the mountain. The remainder is some rock-hopping balanced above the huge south-west face of Monte Altissimo.

    Essential Gear

    Hiking gear is sufficient.

    Images

    The west ridgeMonte FocoracciaFoce del FrateFirst part of the west ridgeWest ridgeCava Tacca BiancaThe start of the north face traverse
    Looking towards CarraraLeaning gendarmeBack on the ridge