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Paterno NW ridge

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Paterno NW ridge

Page Type: Route

Location: Bolzano Alto Adige, Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.62936°N / 12.31530°E

Object Title: Paterno NW ridge

Route Type: Trad Climbing

Season: Summer

Route Quality: 
 - 2 Votes
 

 

Page By: alpinbeta

Created/Edited: Sep 18, 2016 / Dec 4, 2017

Object ID: 982868

Hits: 591 

Page Score: 86.37%  - 22 Votes 

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Overview

Paterno NW ridge


Monte Paterno 2744 m, belonging to the Dolomiti di Sesto and located just in front of the much more famous Tre Cime di Lavaredo, is a popular mountain in reason of the existence of different itineraries with facilities (fixed iron ropes), including Via Ferrata De Luca - Innerkofler, Via delle Forcelle and the Normal Route through Forcella Passport, all allowing to reach the top without real difficulty. Another motive of the high attendance of the mountain is the spectacular panorama over Tre Cime di Lavaredo, right in front, and the surrounding Dolomites groups, in addition Paterno has a great historical importance, as the mountain during the Great War was located right on Italian-Austrian border, with numerous remnants of the Great War, including some several tunnel carved in the rock. Another beautiful and interesting itinerary to get the summit is the route running along the North-West ridge, involving a medium grade rock climbing (IV UIAA) and stunning views.

Monte Paterno seen from the approach path
Paterno seen from Forcella Lavaredo

Monte Paterno(2744m)
Another perspective of Monte Paterno - ph. turistoalpinista

Getting There

Road access

The closest village is Misurina m. 1752, lying on the shores of the homonym lake, which can be approached from Trento or Bolzano following the Brennero Motorway - exit Bressanone - and then taking the Val Pusteria road to Dobbiaco; in Dobbiaco leave the main Pusteria road and take on the right the road entering Val di Landro, reaching Carbonin mt. 1432 and Misurina. The Lavaredo group can be approached also from Belluno via Longarone, Cortina d’Ampezzo and Passo Tre Croci.
From Misurina a private toll–road (23 euros) leads to Auronzo Hut m. 2330, situated at the road’s end in an amazing position below Tre Cime di Lavaredo South faces. Parking.

Lavaredo Southern side from Lago di Misurina
Lavaredo Southern side from Lago di Misurina

Sunrise light over Cadini di Misurina
Sunrise light over Cadini di Misurina

Route Description

North-West Ridge, Via Bolte-Wolf


Summit altitude: m 2744
Difficulty: UIAA IV+ max
Length: 225 m + 100 m on the summit crest, 9 pitches
Exposure: North-West
First ascent: H. Bolte and W. Wolf 1930


A good panoramic climb running along the NW ridge of Paterno, the left one when looking at the wall from Forcella Lavaredo. Classic and pleasant route on good rock with equipped belays and some pegs along the pitches.

Cadini di Misurina seen from the path to Rifugio Lavaredo The lake of Molveno
Cadini di Misurina from the approach
Spigolo Giallo
Spigolo Giallo from the approach
Tre Cime Northern walls view from Forcella Lavaredo
Tre Cime Northern walls from Forcella Lavaredo


Walking approach


From Rifugio Auronzo 2320 m walk on a dirty road to Rifugio Lavaredo 2344 m and from here up to Forcella Lavaredo 2454 m. Take the gravel road towards Rifugio Locatelli-Innerkofler and turn immediately right into a path that crosses the scree keeping high above the gravel road. The path crosses two spurs of rock and reachs the perpendicular of a rocky gully, that high above the path gets the base of NW ridge, leading to the starting point of the route. Here you leave the main trail exiting rightward along poor tracks on a steep slope of gravel and grass, becoming gradually more obvious until you join the high gully in the upper part. Climb the rocks in the gully, reaching a small terrace between a boulder and a small pinnacle just at the starting of the route (1 and a half hour from Rif. Auronzo). Sling inside a hole at the start.

Pitch 1 - Climb the spur directly above the stop, reach a ledge and stop III, 35 m (2 pegs belay)

Pitch 2 – To the right of the belay climb a corners-system and flakes to a small shoulder on the ridge , IV, 25 m (belay on an outcrop).

Pitch 3 – Climb a narrow chimney (2 pegs and a hole) getting a small platform on the edge of the ridge. Climb a steep grey wall and belay on a ledge, IV, 45 m IV (belay on 3 pegs)


Paterno NW ridge and Cima Piccola
Paterno NW ridge and Cima Piccola
The stunning Tre Cime di Lavaredo seen from Paterno NW ridge
Tre Cime seen from the route ridge
On Paterno NW ridge
On the ridge



Pitch 4 – Directly above the belay climb a small overhang, then a fine wall with good holds and the steps along the ridge, IV, 35 m (belay on 2 pegs)

Pitch 5 – A small dihedral and a fine wall lead to a belay under a yellow and steep wall, 20 m IV and III, 20 m (belay on 2 pegs)

Pitch 6 – Slanting left on good grey rock turn the edge and climb a fine wall, then returning right on the ridge and belay below another yellow wall IV-, 50 m (belay on 2 pegs).

Pitch 7 – Towards right some meters on a small ledge, then climb directly a beautiful grey wall (2 pegs) reaching a summit crest IV, III, 25 m (belay on an outcrop).

Pitches 8/9 – Two easy pitches on the crest with outcrops, then on a scree gully lead to the summit with a big wooden cross and plate in memory of Sepp Innerkofler, I and II, 90 m, (belay on outcrops).

Paterno summit cross
Summit cross
Laghi dei Piani seen from Paterno summit
Laghi dei Piani seen from the summit
Forcella dei Camosci and Croda dei Toni back on the right
Forcella dei Camosci



Descent: along the Normal route to Forcella Camosci and Forcella Passaporto
From the summit head to the opposit direction (SE) along a well worn path, then downclimb an easy rock step equipped with fixed ropes, getting Forcella del Camoscio. To return to Forcella Lavaredo descend rightward along a steep trail on a scree slope, then rightwards again follow the beautiful trail along Croda Passaporto war caves and exposed ledges (some fixed ropes), reaching Forcella Passaporto and then Forcella Lavaredo.

The descent along Paterno Normal route
The descent along Paterno Normal route

Tre Cime di Lavaredo seen from a cave on Paterno Normal descent Monte Paterno(2744m)
Tre Cime di Lavaredo seen from a cave on Paterno Normal descent

Essential Gear

Ropes 2x50, harness and helmet, some friends and slings, some quickdraws.

Red Tape

No particulary restrictions in climbing; a fee is due to drive on Lavaredo route (euro 23 in summer 2016).
Monte Paterno is situated inside Northern Dolomites Area, one of the nine areas of the Dolomites in the list of Unesco Natural Sites.
For more info about Dolomites Unesco on SP see the exhaustive article Dolomites living mountains by Silvia Mazzani

Huts



Rifugio Auronzo
m. 2330
- Forcella Longeres (CAI Sez. Auronzo)

Other useful huts:

Rifugio Lavaredo

Rifugio Locatelli Innerkofler m. 2450

When to climb

Normally the best period goes from middle June to middle September.

Bibliography

“Arrampicare a Cortina d’Ampezzo e dintorni – Le vie più belle nelle Dolomiti” by Mauro Bernardi - Athesia Editore

“IV grado in Dolomiti” by Emiliano Zorzi – Idea Montagna Editore

“Dolomiti Orientali” Vol. I Parte II by Antonio Berti – Guide dei Monti d’Italia CAI-TCI

Map: Tabacco n. 010 – Dolomiti di Sesto 1:25.000

Meteo Forecast

Meteo Provincia Bolzano

ARPAV Dolomiti Meteo

Images

Monte Paterno(2744m)Sunrise light over Cadini di MisurinaLavaredo North walls from Paterno descent routeSpigolo GialloThe stunning Tre Cime di Lavaredo seen from Paterno NW ridgeTre Cime di Lavaredo seen from a cave on Paterno Normal descentForcella dei Camosci and Croda dei Toni back on the right
The descent along Paterno Normal routeMonte Paterno seem from the approach pathTre Cime Northern walls view from Forcella LavaredoPaterno seen from Forcella LavaredoRifugio Locatelli-Innerkofler seen from Paterno NW ridgePaterno summit crossSpigolo Giallo, Cima Piccola di Lavaredo
[ View Gallery - 8 More Images ]