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Patteriol
Mountain/Rock

Patteriol

 
Patteriol

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Tirol, Austria, Europe

Lat/Lon: 47.04123°N / 10.18518°E

Object Title: Patteriol

Elevation: 10026 ft / 3056 m

 

Page By: Huberschwiller

Created/Edited: Jan 27, 2004 / Mar 26, 2006

Object ID: 152275

Hits: 6967 

Page Score: 80.49%  - 12 Votes 

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Overview

The Patteriol is called the Matterhorn of Verwall. It is not the highest mountain of the Verwall (or Ferwall) group but it is the summit with the most beautiful shape and with the most powerful and impressive outline.

The Verwall group form a triangle between Klostertal, Arlberg, Stanzertal in the north and Montafon, Bielerhöhe and Paznauntal in the south.

The Patteriol is a lonely mountain which dominates the Schönverwalltal in the west and Fasultal in the east. The ascent is not easy but very handsome. The summit is composed of the N summit, highest point, S summit, and a SW shoulder, the Horn. The normal route uses the gully between the Horn and the S summit.


Getting There

=> Start point is Sankt Anton.
To get to Sankt Anton :
1) By Car:
- Over Salzburg - Kufstein - Innsbruck - Landeck - to St. Anton am Arlberg -
- Over München - Fernpass - Landeck - to St. Anton am Arlberg
- Over Stuttgart - Bregenz - Feldkirch - Bludenz - Arlbergpass or Arlbergtunnel - to St. Anton am Arlberg
- Over Zürich - St. Gallen or Sargans, Feldkirch - Bludenz - Arlbergpass or Arlbergtunnel to St. Anton am Arlberg

2) By Train:
St. Anton am Arlberg is Eurocity station. The station is situated in the local centre. All important international express trains - also the Orient express - stops in St. Anton am Arlberg.

3) By Plane:

The nearest airports are :

Innsbruck (approx. 100 km)
Munich (approx. 250 km)
Zürich (approx. 200 km)
Salzburg (approx. 300 km)
Friedrichshafen (ca. 150km)
Bus Shuttle Friedrichshafen - St. Anton am Arlberg

=> From Sankt Anton, you must go to Konstanzer Hut.
bus stop: hotel mooserkreuz, st. anton
car: salzhüttle, gasthaus verwall
hike bus: gasthaus verwall
walking time :
st. anton 3.00,
gasthaus verwall 1.45
salzhüttle 1.30

Konstanzer Hut can also be reached
- from Silbertal
- from Heilbronner Hut
- from Friedrichshafener Hut


Red Tape

- Toll for Arlberg Tunnel
- Park tax in Sankt Anton

When To Climb

Patteriol is a summer climb : july to september.

Routes Overview

1) Normal route, S face : II (4,5 h from Konstanzer Hut)

2) SW ridge : IV (7 h from Wannenjoch)

3) W face : acute rock fall, no route

4) NW pillar : V (6 - 7 h)

5) N face direct : V (7 h)

6) NE ridge : III to IV (5 - 7 h) Not recommended = loose rocks

7) NE face : V to VI

8) E face and NE ridge : IV (5 h) the most interesting of the difficult routes

9) E pillar of S summit : IV + : beautiful route

10) Bruckmann Weg : the traverse from Heilbronner Hut to Konstanzer Hut for hikers (5 h). This beautiful path over Wannerjoch (2684 m).allows you fantastic views to the summit.


Huts

KONSTANZER HUT :home page

HEILBRONNER HUT : :home page

FRIEDRICHSHAFENER HUT : :home page


Camping

I recommend the Camping Arlberg **** in Pettneu am Arlberg.

Maps and Books

Book : Verwall-Gruppe from Roland Luzian
Bergverlag Rother
November 2004
Edit : 9. Aufl.
ISBN: 376331251X

Maps :
- Kompass N° 33 Arlberg - Verwallgruppe

- best map is Alpenvereinskarte (map of the german alpne club) 1:25.000 Nr. 28/2 Verwallgruppe (Mittleres Blatt - middle sheet), can bei ordered at DAV Alpin (author : Mathias Zehring)

Other 3000 m summits of Verwall

- Hoher Riffler 3168 m

-Kuchenspitze 3148 m (Kuchenspitze was long believed to be the highest mountain of Verwall mountains with 3170 m - but new maps have the height only with 3148 m : info from Mathias Zehring).

-Küchlspitze (or Küchelspitze) 3147 m

-Blankahorn 3129 m

-Seeköpfe 3061 m

-Saumspitze 3039 m


Climbing History

First ascent : Specht and Pöll (1874)
First description : Volland and Madlener (1877)
S face : Bauwerker and A. Tschiderer (1891)
E face : Heinz von Ficker, Hans Kremser, Fritz Miller (1900)
N face : Karl Mayr and Eduard Pichl (1900)
SW ridge : Michael Pfannl and franz Malcher (1905)


Skiresort Sankt Anton

It is where Hannes Schneider made the turns that would change the face of skiing. Where Arnold Fanck made his epic mountain dramas of the silent fild era. Where the first Alpine Ski Club was founded in 1901 and the first Arlberg-Kandahar-Race was held in 1908.

External Links

Images