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Peak Fifteen Climber's Log

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SarahThompsonDirect from Fifteen/Sixteen saddle  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 5, 2009

SarahThompson

The gully to the Peak Fifteen - Peak Sixteen saddle was holding a fair amount of snow and crampons were necessary for the majority of it. I didn't do enough homework on the route before the trip and we ended up taking a more difficult, non-standard route from the top of the gully. We climbed a short pitch directly up from the saddle. The rock was very bad and our trailrunners were still wet from the snow making it very spicy for the leader (not me!). I've only found one reference to this pitch and the author guessed it to be 5.8. We thought it deserved a 5.6 but it was very sketchy. After that it was smooth sailing over scrambling terrain to the summit, one advantage of this more direct route!
Posted Jul 21, 2009 12:32 am

Brian KaletStandard  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 2, 2007

Brian Kalet

Free solo on ascent and descent. 6 hours roundtrip from camp at 11,600' in Ruby Creek.
Posted Sep 6, 2007 12:57 pm

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