Direct from Fifteen/Sixteen saddle Date Climbed: Jul 5, 2009
The gully to the Peak Fifteen - Peak Sixteen saddle was holding a fair amount of snow and crampons were necessary for the majority of it. I didn't do enough homework on the route before the trip and we ended up taking a more difficult, non-standard route from the top of the gully. We climbed a short pitch directly up from the saddle. The rock was very bad and our trailrunners were still wet from the snow making it very spicy for the leader (not me!). I've only found one reference to this pitch and the author guessed it to be 5.8. We thought it deserved a 5.6 but it was very sketchy. After that it was smooth sailing over scrambling terrain to the summit, one advantage of this more direct route!
"After the first glass, you see things as you wish they were. After the second, you see things as they are not. Finally, you see things as they really are, which is the most horrible thing in the world."
--Oscar Wilde on Absinthe