Direct from Fifteen/Sixteen saddle Date Climbed: Jul 5, 2009
The gully to the Peak Fifteen - Peak Sixteen saddle was holding a fair amount of snow and crampons were necessary for the majority of it. I didn't do enough homework on the route before the trip and we ended up taking a more difficult, non-standard route from the top of the gully. We climbed a short pitch directly up from the saddle. The rock was very bad and our trailrunners were still wet from the snow making it very spicy for the leader (not me!). I've only found one reference to this pitch and the author guessed it to be 5.8. We thought it deserved a 5.6 but it was very sketchy. After that it was smooth sailing over scrambling terrain to the summit, one advantage of this more direct route!
"Got tight last night on absinthe and did knife tricks. Great success shooting the knife into the piano. The woodworms are so bad and eat hell out of all furniture that you can always claim the woodworms did it."