NE Gully of Laurel

[mdostby]

Has anyone recently been up NE Gully of Laurel? Wondering about snow. Do I need crampons or is all the snow gone? Thanks in advance!
-Mike

[kellendv]

Did it on the 6th of July. There was a good size snow tongue at the base of the climb that partially inhibited access to the first few moves of the climb. This, the "crux" was literally a running waterfall. I third classed around it. A bit later on, there was another snow tongue, which was not a problem at the time. Both snow tongues presented a 2-4 foot gap between the snow and the rock, this gap may be larger now. . .

Overall, the route was dry. I did the entire thing in approach shoes, the snow that was there was soft enough to manage without any snow tools. With how warm it has been, I wouldn't be surprised if the snow is all gone by now.

Photos here:

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=1 ... 58925279b4

Have Fun!

-Kellen

[mdostby]

Thanks Kellen. Thinking of hitting it on Monday depending on the weather.
-Mike

[kellendv]

If you go, go early. Been raining like clockwork starting early in the afternoon for the last week +.

[fossana]

We got rained/hailed on for ~1.5 hours starting between 11a and noon on Meysan Lakes trail last weekend (with a 20% chance of t-storms) so be forewarned given the nature of the climb. Good luck!

[kellendv]

We got rained/hailed on for ~1.5 hours starting between 11a and noon on Meysan Lakes trail last weekend (with a 20% chance of t-storms) so be forewarned given the nature of the climb. Good luck!

Yes, maybe the worst kind of route to get stuck in a thunderstorm on.

[mdostby]

Yeah, won't be doing it unless the forecast changes.

[rhyang]

Took a look on Friday afternoon from Convict Lake -



Original-sized pic here. NE Gully sounds fun, gonna have to check it out sometime ..

[rhyang]

Thinking about doing this one soon .. possibly with a friend who doesn't have much fourth class experience.

I notice the supertopo lists an optional rack of 1 set nuts + 0.6-1" cams. I don't think I'd place pro, just set up an anchor for belaying on tricky sections. Anyone done this on this route ? I've read that there isn't much pro ..

[Bob Burd]

Thinking about doing this one soon .. possibly with a friend who doesn't have much fourth class experience.

I notice the supertopo lists an optional rack of 1 set nuts + 0.6-1" cams. I don't think I'd place pro, just set up an anchor for belaying on tricky sections. Anyone done this on this route ? I've read that there isn't much pro ..

I'd question the value of a rope on this route. There is tons of loose crap all over the route that will get knocked down with the rope. The tricky sections are short, with little exposure.

[rhyang]

Thanks guys, that's what I thought .. I think I'll save this one for a solo outing

[ExploreABitMore]

He's going to find this VERY exciting. Does he have any experience climbing fifth class slab? 'Cause you're going to be soloing a lot of low fifth/fourth slab.

The tricky sections are short, with little exposure.

hmmmmmmmmmm

[Bob Burd]

He's going to find this VERY exciting. Does he have any experience climbing fifth class slab? 'Cause you're going to be soloing a lot of low fifth/fourth slab.

The tricky sections are short, with little exposure.

hmmmmmmmmmm

Maybe I'm full of it? I had to dust off the archives to get a better memory. This is what we found was the crux:


Then some more places like this:


And lots of slabs, like below, but I didn't think they were fifth class:

[The Chief]

Pro on Laurel that will actually hold a fall more than 5' w/ a trailing rope that won't initiate any rockfall???

Where?????

It is a 1900 foot choss pile runout baby!

[cp0915]

Pro on Laurel that will actually hold a fall more than 5' w/ a trailing rope that won't initiate any rockfall???

Where?????

It is a 1900 foot choss pile runout baby!

Perhaps, but a fine route (and reasonable solo) anyway. As Bob said, the 5th class sections are all short and minimally exposed.