I've read somewhere that while 3 people on technical routes is usually a pain, on alpine routes it can be good. I can't really think of any reason why this would be true. Does anyone know why?

Ummm...Last invited to join the team, carries the beer????

Not fully sure (other than the beer) but, it may be similar to wall climbing (where a 3 man team seemed easier for me than a 2 man team.)

+ side: you have one more player to share the leads, share the loads, and share the laughs (or psychological stress-all the same.)

You probably will use the same alpine rack and use the same rope system (leader on twins or doubles? and second/third can follow on separate lines-possibly simul-climbing.

- side: need more fuel, food, larger tent (although, whats the weight difference between 2-person vs 3-person shelter with advantage of extra mule to carry the load?)

What other advantages vs disadvantages are there? Hard to think as I just opened some Ficklin Old Vine Port

With 3, your are always either leading, or getting to hang out with someone else. In the cold and scary, this is a huge motivational helper.

Extra person to sort out ropes, warm clothes, food, at the belays.

One person can brew hot drinks at each belay if you want.

One person can nap at each belay if you're pushing straight thru.

One follower can fly up the pitch and get the leader on belay while the other cleans the pitch.

Plus, there's the split all the group gear 3 ways advantage.

2 people got a chance of self-rescuing with a partner who's pretty jacked up.

Really is a whole different deal to have a buddy to hang out with at the belays on a long alpine route.

Always nice to have a third for managing the ropes at each belay or to get stuff out of your pack while you belay (belay jacket, mitts, food, etc.).

And don't forget the beer! Oh, wait, it's alpine climbing...Don't forget the brandy/whiskey

I've no real experience with it.... However I did listen to Marc Twight interviewed on just that thing; it may even be in his book:

1) With the right amount of gear, there's always someone climbing and you never have to waste time re-racking.

2) When vacillating between retreat or pressing on, a third opinion will always swing the pendulum definitively, either. Two opinions, either way, motivate upwards or downwards, there's never indecision.


-At least that's what he's said. Seems to make sense.

Maybe they were referring to alpine climbing on glaciers? In that case, 3, 4, or even 5 person rope teams are common because it makes it easier to arrest and rescue a climber who fell into a crevasse.

Dave Dinnell wrote: Hard to think as I just opened some Ficklin Old Vine Port

at 6:39 am? Wow, you're my hero

Gak Icenberg wrote:

Dave Dinnell wrote: Hard to think as I just opened some Ficklin Old Vine Port

at 6:39 am? Wow, you're my hero

Gak.... DD is one hardcore dude. trust me.

I like just the "Two Of Us" just seems less complicated.

... you only need to convince one person to Bail.

... when you get home, you only need to slander one person about the failure.

... while sleeping in the tent, you don't need to ask, Who Farted?????

i agree with Romak, i think a 3 person team is best for routes where a crevasse fall is possible or likely. getting an somebody out of a crevasse who is unconscious, or really hurt would be much easier with a third person on the rope.

Glaciertravel ...

Gak Icenberg wrote:

Dave Dinnell wrote: Hard to think as I just opened some Ficklin Old Vine Port

at 6:39 am? Wow, you're my hero

Yeah, that's how I roll...


Not sure what GMT time is set for but I think I posted at 9:30 or 10:30 ish. And that port was goood.

climbhighnow wrote:i think a 3 person team is best for routes where a crevasse fall is possible or likely. getting an somebody out of a crevasse who is unconscious, or really hurt would be much easier with a third person on the rope.

Rule of thumb for a two-person rope team is the person that falls in is responsible for getting themself out. If the fallen climber is unconscious their partner can either build an anchor and haul them out or cut the rope. Their choice.

Uh, make anchor, prussic down, put unconcious buddy on back via harness to harness tie in over shoulder and up you go. Now if you have a gigantic imbalance in weight between partners this is problematical. Woman/man or Giant dude and small dude. If you are in shape, MANDATORY IN 2 PERSON TEAM, then you can prussic up a rope with your buddy on your back. If you are in shape you can leg press 3x your weight, and depending on the angle much more than this.

You can use your partners prussic to "boost" him up with a pulley attached to said rope on a prussic which you then "step" on and your own weight + shoving partner up does the trick as well.

All ya gotta do is use your brain. Unprepared = dead and guess what you then cut the rope because you were too lazy to prepare yourself.

I wouldn't want that on my conscience... Cutting a rope... sheesh... gotta be really stupid to do this unless its impossible to build an anchor, then of course this is the ONLY option.

Brian

Brad Marshall wrote:

climbhighnow wrote:i think a 3 person team is best for routes where a crevasse fall is possible or likely. getting an somebody out of a crevasse who is unconscious, or really hurt would be much easier with a third person on the rope.

Rule of thumb for a two-person rope team is the person that falls in is responsible for getting themself out. If the fallen climber is unconscious their partner can either build an anchor and haul them out or cut the rope. Their choice.