alpine345 wrote:I drilled through Will Gadd's links to the 37 page thread on RC, and it appeared to validate the knot limited sliding X as the preferred system, with some type of AE as a second choice. It was fun seeing John Long, Malcom Daly, et. al. duke it out. I've used the different forms of the sliding X for over 25 years and it's never failed, but lately, when I've felt the need for a macrame project, I've been trying this AE system: http://www.paulraphaelson.com/downloads/acr.pdf I use a Climb X 30 kN ring with a 12mm rope bearing surface and 7mm Mammut cord...it seems simpler and more versatile than other inventions.
The Chief wrote:AlpineThe one entity that has precluded me from utilizing this technique on a regular basis is the fact that there is no "Stop" in case either of the ears is totally compromised, i.e.completely severed/cut from rock fall as was presented to me when I was first exposed to it. I have had this occur to me twice in the past 40+ years of playing at this game. Once at Seneca and the other on Temple Crag. Both times were suedo hanging belays, I employed the standard Cordelette, and the anchor/Power Point held via the remaining two ears/extensions remaining attached to their pieces of pro. Both times I had minimal extension. Had I been using an AE/ACR/Sliding X on either event, I fear to say that I nor my partner/s, would not be here today.
Some say that the chances of this happening are a Billion to one. Well, all it takes is once.
I would also NEVER use an AE/ACR/Sliding X set up on any Free Hanging Belay, Big Wall System, solo or not nor any Guiding situ where a "Direct" belay is employed, for the exact reason I state above.
Brian C wrote:Interesting. I've used my ACR on numerous free-hanging belays and aid routes but I've always either tied two limiting knots in the legs or just tied it as a regular cordalette to prevent total failure. Good point to think about though.
The Chief wrote:Brian C wrote:Interesting. I've used my ACR on numerous free-hanging belays and aid routes but I've always either tied two limiting knots in the legs or just tied it as a regular cordalette to prevent total failure. Good point to think about though.
Doing that totally negates the entire premise of "Sliding X" and just affords you the same extension to the Anchors as does a good ole Cordelettte.... Correct?
Marcsoltan wrote:How come nobody's talking about using a directional? 99% of the time it's not needed, but when the situation arises, you are so glad to have it, such as in stopping a bad fall, another long story.
TheGeneral wrote:Best belay anchor? Clove hitching to bombproof pieces.
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