Hi,
I found an American group that was planning to do Broad peak + K2 this year (2017) on this forum who were using the same logistics company I was in touch with for over a year. After I confirmed the trip, they told me that even though I am American but of Indian origin they cannot arrange my permit. They said they tried and were told it was not possible, further they said I won't even be able to get a tourist visa to go Pakistan.

I believe them and feel that they did try their best but it is possible they got a misinformed agent at the ministry of tourism because I don't feel that Pakistan would refuse even a tourist visa to an American of Indian origin. Would someone in the know confirm that this is indeed true ?

If this is not possible, the mountain shares a border with China/Tibet. Would anyone know the process for arranging a permit from China ?

Would someone from this forum be interested in joining an expedition from China ?

thanks much,
Swamy

If this is not possible, the mountain shares a border with China/Tibet. Would anyone know the process for arranging a permit from China ?

Would someone from this forum be interested in joining an expedition from China ?

I believe that to date, no one has climbed Broad Peak from the Chinese side, but good luck to you if you do try it. It would be a first ascent.

Scott wrote:

If this is not possible, the mountain shares a border with China/Tibet. Would anyone know the process for arranging a permit from China ?

Would someone from this forum be interested in joining an expedition from China ?

I believe that to date, no one has climbed Broad Peak from the Chinese side, but good luck to you if you do try it. It would be a first ascent.

There is this article that says it has been done 3 times: http://publications.americanalpineclub. ... 199303900/

but very little beta. If someone knows more please let me know:
1. the red tape
2. logistics
3. route conditions

I know it is too soon but if someone is interested in joining me I would love to get in touch.

thanks,
Swam

swamy wrote:

Scott wrote:

If this is not possible, the mountain shares a border with China/Tibet. Would anyone know the process for arranging a permit from China ?

Would someone from this forum be interested in joining an expedition from China ?

I believe that to date, no one has climbed Broad Peak from the Chinese side, but good luck to you if you do try it. It would be a first ascent.

There is this article that says it has been done 3 times: http://publications.americanalpineclub. ... 199303900/

but very little beta. If someone knows more please let me know:
1. the red tape
2. logistics
3. route conditions

I know it is too soon but if someone is interested in joining me I would love to get in touch.

thanks,
Swam

Since you are interested, it hasn't actually been done three times. The group actually made three summit attempts on the same trip, July 11, July 14, and August 1-5, 1992, reaching the central summit in August 4. The central summit is not the highest summit, so if you succeeded in climbing it from the Chinese side, you would still be credited with the first ascent of Broad Peak from the Chinese side (unless it has been done very recently).

I believe that I do have their route marked on a photo in the book On Top of The World: Climbing the World's 14 Highest Mountains, but I'm out of town right now. I can check it when I get home or scan it, but as far as finding real beta, that would be hard to come by.

I'd highly recommend contacting the Chinese Mountaineering Association. They won't be able to provide route details or conditions, but they should be able to tell you about the red tape and permits involved.

I'd also consider contacting this SP member:

http://www.summitpost.org/users/damien-gildea/2355

I would bet that if any other attempts have taken place from the Chinese side, he would know about them.

I wish you the best of luck!

Scott wrote:

swamy wrote:

Scott wrote:

If this is not possible, the mountain shares a border with China/Tibet. Would anyone know the process for arranging a permit from China ?

Would someone from this forum be interested in joining an expedition from China ?

I believe that to date, no one has climbed Broad Peak from the Chinese side, but good luck to you if you do try it. It would be a first ascent.

There is this article that says it has been done 3 times: http://publications.americanalpineclub. ... 199303900/

but very little beta. If someone knows more please let me know:
1. the red tape
2. logistics
3. route conditions

I know it is too soon but if someone is interested in joining me I would love to get in touch.

thanks,
Swam

Since you are interested, it hasn't actually been done three times. The group actually made three summit attempts on the same trip, July 11, July 14, and August 1-5, 1992, reaching the central summit in August 4. The central summit is not the highest summit, so if you succeeded in climbing it from the Chinese side, you would still be credited with the first ascent of Broad Peak from the Chinese side (unless it has been done very recently).

I believe that I do have their route marked on a photo in the book On Top of The World: Climbing the World's 14 Highest Mountains, but I'm out of town right now. I can check it when I get home or scan it, but as far as finding real beta, that would be hard to come by.

I'd highly recommend contacting the Chinese Mountaineering Association. They won't be able to provide route details or conditions, but they should be able to tell you about the red tape and permits involved.

I'd also consider contacting this SP member:

http://www.summitpost.org/users/damien-gildea/2355

I would bet that if any other attempts have taken place from the Chinese side, he would know about them.

I wish you the best of luck!

Ah yes, my bad. Three attempts, 1 summit of central summit. I sent a few emails I found for the Chinese Mountaineering Association. I went to their page but most of the content is in Chinese and contact info is mostly telephone numbers. I am going to wait to see if I get replies to the email and find someone who speaks Chinese in the meantime to see if they would make the phone calls for me Thanks for link to Damien. Will PM him.

Look forward to the photo when you are back home.
Thanks again,
Swam

Scott wrote: The group actually made three summit attempts on the same trip, July 11, July 14, and August 1-5, 1992, reaching the central summit in August 4. The central summit is not the highest summit, so if you succeeded in climbing it from the Chinese side, you would still be credited with the first ascent of Broad Peak from the Chinese side (unless it has been done very recently).

That's correct, Scott, Broad Peak has not been climbed from China.

However, given the Central Peak was climbed, I think the Chinese may consider BP 'climbed' for their purposes (they have done this with other peaks) and therefore charge a more reasonable rate than what they charge for an Unclimbed peak. I'd pretend I'm going 2nd until I got to the real summit then claim the FA once I left the country

Either way, it's heinously difficult and expensive to organise an expedition into the Shaksgam side of the range now, so chances are slim at best.

Damien Gildea wrote:

Scott wrote: The group actually made three summit attempts on the same trip, July 11, July 14, and August 1-5, 1992, reaching the central summit in August 4. The central summit is not the highest summit, so if you succeeded in climbing it from the Chinese side, you would still be credited with the first ascent of Broad Peak from the Chinese side (unless it has been done very recently).

That's correct, Scott, Broad Peak has not been climbed from China.

However, given the Central Peak was climbed, I think the Chinese may consider BP 'climbed' for their purposes (they have done this with other peaks) and therefore charge a more reasonable rate than what they charge for an Unclimbed peak. I'd pretend I'm going 2nd until I got to the real summit then claim the FA once I left the country

Either way, it's heinously difficult and expensive to organise an expedition into the Shaksgam side of the range now, so chances are slim at best.

Thanks Damien I am not sure I will get too far but want to try. So, not too worried about claiming FA. lol. I am still trying to get the permit from Pakistan from other operators but I believe my chances are slim right now.

Swamy,

Since you are in northern Virginia, you might want to visit the Visa section of the Embassy of Pakistan in D.C. and discuss your visa issue directly with them.

adventurer wrote:Swamy,

Since you are in northern Virginia, you might want to visit the Visa section of the Embassy of Pakistan in D.C. and discuss your visa issue directly with them.

Thanks Adventurer,
I have a friend who lives in DC who said he will check with the embassy this week. The embassy gives out the Visa but the climbing permit has to come from the ministry of interior or tourism I think. I will update the thread after I hear from my friend.

thanks,
Swam

Hello,

I got a response from a Chinese logistics provider who said cost of permit and liaison officer from China is $13.5K for a group. Give or take a few hundred for exchange rate. It seems higher than for Everest. In any case I would not be able to do it just alone. I need a team of 4 ideally. If anyone is interested in joining and sharing costs please contact me.

A successful summit from China would be a first. Even an attempt would be notable as so few do it.

thanks,
Swam