Cannon Cliff, Routes

Regional discussion and conditions reports for the Eastern US. Please post partners requests and trip plans in the Eastern US Climbing Partners section.
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RyderS

 
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Cannon Cliff, Routes

by RyderS » Mon May 16, 2011 6:16 pm

My friend and I are considering a weekend trad marathon in NH in the upcoming week or two. The two routes we have our eyes on are Whitney-Gilman Ridge and Moby Grape up on Cannon. Any recommendations for which one would be the one to hit up if our time frame doesn't allow to get both in?

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AlexeyD

 
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Re: Cannon Cliff, Routes

by AlexeyD » Mon May 16, 2011 11:23 pm

Both are New England mega-classics, and for good reason. Which one to choose depends on your climbing level and the amount of time you're willing to commit. MG is considerably longer (9 pitches or so), more difficult (almost all the pitches involve considerable 5.7/5.8 climbing) and more committing (no fixed rap anchors at all after the top of the first pitch). MG is often described as a 5.8 route that is more appropriate for 5.9/5.10 leaders, and I think it's a reasonable description, at least if it's your first time on it. WG is about 5 pitches (can be done in less), and only has several short 5.7 crux sections, much of the rest of the route is 5.6 or easier. That said, it's still an excellent route in a spectacular setting, occasionally with tremendous exposure. One other point to consider is that if you are really thinking of going the next week or two, you may want to consider delaying your plans just a bit. The forecast calls for nearly a week of raining, and Cannon tends to be prone to rockfall this time of year in general, and after prolonged wet periods like this one in particular. If your time in the Northeast is limited, maybe consider Cathedral or Whitehorse instead? Those tend to dry faster after rain, and have less loose rock to worry about. Either way, good luck!


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