First of all, this is a great site and community you've all got here. I've ended up at this peak many times over the years, by different routes! I'm pleased to finally be posting here.

I'm planning a mountaineering trip to the central Caucasus this August/September. My original plan involved crossing from Georgia to Russia, or Russia to Georgia, by some as-yet-undecided route. To be clear: is such border crossing prohibited in both directions? Is it the country you're leaving, or the one that you're heading towards, that will be cross with you?

Regarding mountain concerns, does anyone have knowledge of the route from Tetnuld to Gestola, along Tetnuld's north-east ridge? What sort of difficulty are we talking about here? The eventual aim would be descent into Bezengi via Lyalver. If the other way around (Bezengi to Mestia) is bureaucratically simpler, then so be it.

And finally, how do the routes up Shota Rustaveli peak from the Russian and Georgian sides compare? Lying on the border as it does, can one climb it from Russia legally?

Thanks for your help. Any information would be precious information!

4get about crossing from Georgia to Russia or viceversa, I would say.

Gestola from Russia (Bezengi) is possible, you need the border zone permit for Bezengi.
Formally, the last miles to the border are forbidden, but obviously no one cares.

Technically Gestola AFAIR (have to take a look in the guidebook) is not too difficult but IMHO requires 2-3 high camps.
That is, you have to carry you tent across the ridge at least up to P4310. It's more strenous and exposed than difficult.

I see, thanks. Are you implying that a traverse from Tetnuld to Gestola is overly difficult? Any idea about access to Gestola from the Georgian side (to avoid crossing the border on the way down)?

What guide book would that be, by the way? Perhaps it has details on Shota Rustaveli.

JonnyD wrote:What guide book would that be, by the way?

I was talking about the Bezengi Guidebook

--> p.70, the route is graded russ. 3B

Brilliant! That should help a lot. Just got to brush up on (that is, learn) russian, or at least my cyrillic! Hard to find routes for these peaks, in general.

Regarding the Gestola-Tetnuld traverse, I found this: http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12193254202/Asia-Russia-Georgia-Caucasus.

''Mt. Lyaler was climbed by the northeast ridge and an ascent made of Gestola with a traverse to Tetnuld during which a bivouac was utilized ; the descent was made on the west side.''

It seems they later died, which doesn't bode well.