Climbing July/August in Europe

Find climbing partners in Europe.
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yanglou

 
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Climbing July/August in Europe

by yanglou » Wed Mar 11, 2015 5:06 pm

Hi,

I messaged some of you guys, but here's a general call out.

21f student climbing lead 6b, follow up to 7a. Bouldering up to 6c (conversion) in Squamish, Vancouver. I have sport, trad and multi experience. No alpine experience. I'm looking to travel through the Alps, Germany, Eastern Europe, and Scandinavia, but I'm pretty flexible at the moment if you have other plans. Mine are very rough. Looking for climbing partners. Offering high psych levels in return. :D

My idea is to stay one week, maybe two in a place, then traveling/sight-seeing, and hitting up another climbing place.

Unfortunately, I don't have a rope or crashpad, but I have an anchor and basic climbing stuff. I have my own tent, sleeping bag and stove. I'm willing to invest in equipment depending on the situation.

Cheers,

Hanna

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rgg
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Re: Climbing July/August in Europe

by rgg » Thu Mar 12, 2015 3:56 am

At the moment my provisional plan for the season is to head for the Alps sometime in June and spend just about the whole summer there. I've spent the last few summers this way as well. I usually stay in an area for a bit, explore it, then move on.

Sightseeing I don't do much, I much prefer to go hiking and climbing. Occasionally I have a travel day or a bad weather day, and in either case that may mean spending time in the valleys and some walking around town, but otherwise I want to be in the mountains.

Mostly I'm into alpine climbing and hiking, either with one or more partners or soloing when I believe it's safe enough and well within my comfort zone. Vie Ferrate are excellent for soloing as well. When it comes to partners, some of those I knew from earlier trips, others I've met through SummitPost. Either way, we discuss what we roughly want to do, settle on where and when to meet and then the weather and conditions in the mountains force us to adapt our plans. But with a whole summer, there is always a whole lot to be done. Few people can stay that long though, so usually I team up for one or two weeks and then I'm on my own again.

Occasionally I do some rock climbing on bolted routes as well, but not at your level. I lead fairly comfortably up to 5a, and am not afraid to try higher grades if I feel good. Hardest lead so far has been 5c. I regularly follow up to 6a, but also regularly fall when trying. No problem on sports routes, but for alpine routes that's unacceptable. Even with the right partner, on those I won't go beyond UIAA grade IV if the route isn't protected, or V if there are bolts. When soloing I usually don't go beyond II. And other factors such as rock quality and exposure also play a part in deciding if I want to solo a particular route. Mind you, on alpine routes I've always climbed in big boots.

Perhaps we could join up for a bit of climbing this summer, be it for some sports climbing or for alpine rock. I've got all the necessary gear for that (though no crash pad; I've never done any bouldering). On a somewhat different note, when it comes to steep alpine ice and snow routes, I haven't found my limit yet. But since you have no alpine experience, that's not an option.

And, for the record, I'm 55m and semi-retired.

Cheers, Rob

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WayneRC

 
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Re: Climbing July/August in Europe

by WayneRC » Tue Jun 02, 2015 2:12 pm

Hi Rob and Hanna,
I will be in the Dolomites from 22 August to 20 September.
Rob, I am the same age as you and am quite experienced with multi pitch rock climbing. I was in the Dolomites last year for four weeks climbing and decided to return in 2015. I climb regularly (average one day out of 10) and have my previous experience in Australia, New Zealand and the Himalaya.
The grades that I wish to climb in the Dolomites are the long climbs with pitches of III, IV to V+ or occasionally VI if the protection is good. I only climb safely these days and have the relevant trad gear.
Depending on the weather, I am happy to do some via ferrate. I'll have a car and am planning to operate from the Cortina de Ampezzo area but can be flexible on that.
If you wish, Contact me on wcarroll06@yahoo.com

Cheers,
Wayne


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