Welcome to SP!  -
Areas & RangesMountains & RocksRoutesImagesArticlesTrip ReportsGearOtherPeoplePlans & PartnersWhat's NewForum

Ecuador climbing conditions..?

Regional discussion and conditions reports for South America. Please post partners requests and trip plans in the South American Climbing Partners section.
 

Re: Ecuador climbing conditions..?

Postby JB99 » Sun Jun 12, 2011 12:57 am

One more request for an update, on Cotopaxi and/or Cayambe... Heading to one or the other to take a shot next Wednesday. Hoping things have consolidated a bit...
User Avatar
JB99

 
Posts: 36
Joined: Tue Nov 18, 2008 8:28 am
Location: Fort Collins, Colorado, United States
Thanked: 8 times in 7 posts

Re: Ecuador climbing conditions..?

Postby MMclimbhigh » Mon Dec 19, 2011 10:08 pm

Just returned from an amazing climbing trip to the Andes of Ecuador. The weather was challenging, but we managed to summit Rucu Pichincha, Iliniza Norte, Iliniza Sur, Cotopaxi and the great Chimborazo. It snowed every day after 2PM during our 23 days there. Clear mornings, clouds by noon, snow all afternoon and clearing again by midnight. All that snow created great climbing conditions. The routes on all the big peaks are in very good shape. Avalanche danger was a bit high at times, so play it smart. Go enjoy the tropical glaciers of the beautiful Andes!
User Avatar
MMclimbhigh

 
Posts: 9
Joined: Wed Sep 28, 2011 6:45 am
Location: Anacortes, Washington, United States
Thanked: 1 time in 1 post

The following user would like to thank MMclimbhigh for this post
MarioCaceres

Re: Ecuador climbing conditions..?

Postby Socorro » Fri Dec 23, 2011 7:35 pm

Hey MMclimbhigh, I saw your logs! congrats! That sounds like an epic group of climbs.

I'll be trying Cotopaxi again in late January. Very excited for the second shot.
User Avatar
Socorro

 
Posts: 1
Joined: Fri Oct 14, 2011 3:32 pm
Location: Skagway, Alaska, United States
Thanked: 0 time in 0 post

Re: Ecuador climbing conditions..?

Postby MarioCaceres » Fri Dec 30, 2011 7:15 am

Thanks for the update on conditions MMclimbhigh. I'm heading that way in a few days and forecast is similar to what you describe. It's reassuring to know that there is actually a pattern thru the day and you guys managed to have a good time.

BTW, I found the following site has very interesting weather info. It's mountain specific and has forecasts for diferent elevations. Not sure how accurate their models are, but I will try to validate them once I'm there. Here is the link:

http://www.mountain-forecast.com/peaks/ ... casts/6267

Cheers,
User Avatar
MarioCaceres

 
Posts: 5
Joined: Mon Dec 26, 2011 7:50 am
Location: San Francisco, California, United States
Thanked: 0 time in 0 post

Re: Ecuador climbing conditions..?

Postby metal4lyf » Sat Feb 25, 2012 8:48 pm

If anyone's interested, we just returned from Ecuador. These were the conditions in our experience:

Rucu Pichincha - Great scramble on the SE ridge. No snow on the route. Socked in at the summit. We got rained and snowed on.
Illiniza Norte - Snow starts a few hundred feet below Nuevos Horizontes. Sidehilling on steep, unconsolidated snow at Paso de la Muerte. Socked in at the summit. Weather was rain, snow, sleet, graupel.
Cotopaxi - Good hard snow from the refugio to the glacier. Good bootpack on the glacier. Interesting route with some fun crevasse threading and a little bit of ice. Turned around at 18900' due to frostbite concerns for one of my team. The ice ramp looked easy and other groups were just using quick belays. Perfect weather.
Chimborazo - Via El Castillo. Strenuous but boring. No crevasses on the route. Steep and often unconsolidated snow for 4000'. Incredible views from the Whymper summit. Snowing up to El Castillo, great weather above that. Little rocks were pelting us on the descent from El Castillo.
User Avatar
metal4lyf

 
Posts: 22
Joined: Fri Sep 11, 2009 7:20 pm
Location: Broomfield, Colorado, United States
Thanked: 0 time in 0 post

Re: Ecuador climbing conditions..?

Postby mtvalley » Mon Feb 27, 2012 6:13 am

Regarding the mountain-forecast.com site mentioned, my advice is take it with a grain of salt.

We were in Ecuador in January and moved our Cotopaxi summit attempt up a day due to a snowstorm called for on the site. We ended up caught in a whiteout high on the peak, 50 mph sustained winds and had to turn back just 200 meters from the summit. Apparently the next day's weather (our original summit night) was perfect and quite a few teams made the top.

It's impossible to predict weather from day to day on these volcanoes, they're so big they create their own weather systems.
User Avatar
mtvalley

 
Posts: 45
Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 2:17 am
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Thanked: 3 times in 3 posts

Re: Ecuador climbing conditions..?

Postby Boleslav » Mon Apr 30, 2012 4:35 pm

Does anyone have an update on the Cotopaxi conditions?
Thanks
Boleslav

 
Posts: 57
Joined: Fri Aug 29, 2008 11:55 pm
Location: United States
Thanked: 0 time in 0 post

Previous

Return to South America

 


  • Related topics
    Replies
    Views
    Last post

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 0 guests

© 2006-2013 SummitPost.org. All Rights Reserved.