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Everest Tragedy

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Re: Everest Tragedy

Postby mountainsandsound » Sat Apr 26, 2014 8:00 pm

It's not climbing, it's trophy hunting.
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Re: Everest Tragedy

Postby willytinawin » Sat Apr 26, 2014 8:38 pm

The mountain sure has changed since Reinhold Messner climbed it alone without oxygen in three days with no one fixing the route. I think he was even wearing leather boots.

What happened was money. Everyone wanted to make a profit on Everest. Supplemental oxygen and fixed guided routes, big fees. huge piles of trash left behind. That is the polar opposite of Reinhold's style.

I think only people like Reinhold should be there. For most others, it is death on a stick. If you can't do it honestly and with good style, stay away. RIP sherpas.
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Re: Everest Tragedy

Postby ScottyP » Sat Apr 26, 2014 8:51 pm

Marmaduke wrote:Two Sonoma Valley (were I reside) residents were on the mountain but were luckily unharmed.
http://www.pressdemocrat.com/article/20 ... /140419487
http://www.sonomanews.com/kenwood-climb ... 1PitfPn_hE



Only Jon is from Kenwood. Geiger is Sacramento

I am strongly looking at the north side now for my 2015 bid. I am guessing that it will see a LOT more interest next year from many companies.
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Re: Everest Tragedy

Postby Sunny Buns » Sun Apr 27, 2014 7:41 am

If the Sherpas don't want to work the mountain that's OK, many westerners, probably some on this website, would be happy to do the work, although perhaps at a higher wage - the guide companies can afford to pay whatever it takes - they'll pass the costs on to their clients. Everyone knows the dangers of the climb - it's not a secret.

For those who don't like the normal route experience, find another route, or another mountain.

I'm betting the Sherpas will continue to work for the guide companies because the pay is good and because they love the work and the mountains - just like the tourists. Who wouldn't love working in such a beautiful place?
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Re: Everest Tragedy

Postby radson » Sun Apr 27, 2014 2:55 pm

willytinawin wrote:The mountain sure has changed since Reinhold Messner climbed it alone without oxygen in three days with no one fixing the route. I think he was even wearing leather boots.

What happened was money. Everyone wanted to make a profit on Everest. Supplemental oxygen and fixed guided routes, big fees. huge piles of trash left behind. That is the polar opposite of Reinhold's style.

I think only people like Reinhold should be there. For most others, it is death on a stick. If you can't do it honestly and with good style, stay away. RIP sherpas.


Messner was an absolute outlier on Everest. The history of Everest was massive scale military siege tactics with thousands of porters and fixed rope and oxygen. Nationalism has 'evolved' into commercialism. I still wonder though, who aside Brice and Simonson are making any money at all.

One thing that has changed though is the trash. I would be interested to see any recent pics of piles of rubbish left behind in Nepal. With massive garbage deposits and fees for bottle returns I do wonder why this idea is perpetuated.
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Re: Everest Tragedy

Postby dadndave » Mon May 05, 2014 3:31 am

I wouldn't say Messner was an absolute outlier on Everest.

The first Australian ascent of Everest was straight up the guts of the North Face to the Norton Couloir in Alpine style and without oxygen! Tim McCartney-Snape and Greg Mortimer. 1984.

Before that Bonnington's team did "Everest the hard way" - South-West face with Haston and Doug Scott, Burke and Boardman (I think) all summitting. Not sure if that was with or without oxygen. 1975

Pommy bloke called Venables summited via the Kangshung Face to the South Col. Not sure what year.

Then there was the American West Ridge - Hornbein couloir route. Pretty big deal for 1963
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Re: Everest Tragedy

Postby ChrisJahn » Mon May 05, 2014 4:03 am

dadndave wrote:I wouldn't say Messner was an absolute outlier on Everest.

The first Australian ascent of Everest was straight up the guts of the North Face to the Norton Couloir in Alpine style and without oxygen! Tim McCartney-Snape and Greg Mortimer. 1984.

Before that Bonnington's team did "Everest the hard way" - South-West face with Haston and Doug Scott, Burke and Boardman (I think) all summitting. Not sure if that was with or without oxygen. 1975

Pommy bloke called Venables summited via the Kangshung Face to the South Col. Not sure what year.

Then there was the American West Ridge - Hornbein couloir route. Pretty big deal for 1963


Fair, but did they see the Yeti?
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Re: Everest Tragedy

Postby macintosh » Mon May 05, 2014 8:54 am

dadndave wrote:Before that Bonnington's team did "Everest the hard way" - South-West face with Haston and Doug Scott, Burke and Boardman (I think) all summitting. Not sure if that was with or without oxygen. 1975

Whillans & Bonington's team used oxygen in 1975.
Image
This was the first and last time when Doug use it as he write page 35:
"It also gave me the confidence to start planning a trip to Kangchenjunga but I knew that it would be a lightweight venture, with a small team and definitly no bottles of oxygen."
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Re: Everest Tragedy

Postby radson » Mon May 05, 2014 10:41 am

dadndave wrote:I wouldn't say Messner was an absolute outlier on Everest.

The first Australian ascent of Everest was straight up the guts of the North Face to the Norton Couloir in Alpine style and without oxygen! Tim McCartney-Snape and Greg Mortimer. 1984.

Before that Bonnington's team did "Everest the hard way" - South-West face with Haston and Doug Scott, Burke and Boardman (I think) all summitting. Not sure if that was with or without oxygen. 1975

Pommy bloke called Venables summited via the Kangshung Face to the South Col. Not sure what year.

Then there was the American West Ridge - Hornbein couloir route. Pretty big deal for 1963


I guess its semantics but for me Messners solo no oxygen free ascent new route of everest is the very definition of outlier.
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Re: Everest Tragedy

Postby macintosh » Mon May 05, 2014 11:00 am

radson wrote:
dadndave wrote:I wouldn't say Messner was an absolute outlier on Everest.
The first Australian ascent of Everest was straight up the guts of the North Face to the Norton Couloir in Alpine style and without oxygen! Tim McCartney-Snape and Greg Mortimer. 1984.
Before that Bonnington's team did "Everest the hard way" - South-West face with Haston and Doug Scott, Burke and Boardman (I think) all summitting. Not sure if that was with or without oxygen. 1975
Pommy bloke called Venables summited via the Kangshung Face to the South Col. Not sure what year.
Then there was the American West Ridge - Hornbein couloir route. Pretty big deal for 1963

I guess its semantics but for me Messners solo no oxygen free ascent new route of everest is the very definition of outlier.

OK, but why ?
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